What To Plant and What To Do

Annuals (Or Grown As Annuals): Chrysanthemum season is here! See our handout on Chrysanthemums for tips on how to keep them flowering longer and prettier. CLICK HERE! Other great options are diascia, lobelia, marigolds (Tagetes), million bells (Calibrachoa), nemesia, ornamental pepper (Capsicum), verbena, and wax begonia. As temperatures cool, alyssum (Lobularia), dianthus, ornamental cabbage/kale (Brassica), snapdragons (Antirrhinum), and Supertunias (Petunia) are also favorites for this time of year. Toward the end of the month you can include viola and pansy (Viola). If temperatures remain high, you may also be able to continue to grow heat-loving plants like coleus (Plectranthus), pentas, purslane (Portulaca) and zinnias a little longer.

Perennials: Usually flowering this time of year are asters, baby sunrose (Aptenia), black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia), cigar plant (Cuphea ignea), coneflower (Echinacea), coreopsis, dune sunflower (Helianthus), firecracker plant (Russelia), goldenrod (Solidago), Joe Pye weed (Eupatorium), lantana, Mexican bush sage (Salvia leucantha), ornamental grasses, plumbago, Russian sage (Perovskia), salvias, and shasta daisy (Leucanthemum). Some of these plants may support birds and butterflies which are still migrating through. African and Regina irises, agapanthus, baptisia, flax lily (Dianella), foxglove (Digitalis), foxtail fern (Asparagus), Mexican heather (Cuphea hyssopifolia) and purple queen (Tradescantia) are also noteworthy additions to the fall garden. But as noted above, most perennials that grow here could be planted this time of year. Exceptions would be winter tender plants that would be best planted in late spring once the ground warms up, giving them all summer long to become established before winter. Indoors plant Amaryllis bulbs, which take about 5-10 weeks to bloom, for holiday flowers. See our handout on growing Amaryllis CLICK HERE!.

Groundcovers: You can install groundcovers and border plants like ajuga, Asiatic jasmine (Trachelospermum), autumn fern (Dryopteris), Aztec grass (Liriopogon), blue-eyed grass (Sisyrinchium), blueberry flax (Dianella), creeping fig (Ficus), foxtail fern (Asparagus), holly fern (Cyrtomium), lily turf (Liriope), mondo grass (Ophiopogon), perennial peanut (Arachis) and society garlic (Tulbaghia).

Succulents: Succulents are always useful. Cold hardy succulents can be planted outdoors and tender succulents make great indoor plants where bright light is available.

CLICK HERE FOR CARE GUIDES!

Vines: Vines which can be planted this month include Carolina jessamine (Gelsemium), confederate jasmine (Trachelospermum), coral honeysuckle (Lonicera), crossvine (Bignonia), English ivy (Hedera), morning glory (Ipomoea), native wisteria (Wisteria frutescens), passion vine (Passiflora), railroad vine (Ipomoea) and yellow butterfly vine (Mascagnia).

Shrubs and Trees: When temperatures start to cool off, it is also a great time to plant most shrubs and trees. If the fall and winter is dry, be sure to especially water evergreen types since they are more prone to desiccation. Plant trees which are blooming at this time, such as Crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia), so you can get a first-hand look at the flower. Sasanqua camellias should be starting to bloom. The native beautyberry (Callicarpa) is stunning this time of year with its bright purple berries. Planting hollies can provide attractive holiday berries which are also appreciated by wildlife. Remember to ‘Dial Before You Dig’ (811) if the hole is deeper than your shovel blade.

Palms: Palms which should be sufficiently hardy to plant in fall are cabbage (Sabal), European Fan (Chamaerops), needle (Rhapidophyllum), pindo (Butia), silver saw palmetto (Serenoa), Sylvester (Phoenix), Washington (Washingtonia), Windmill (Trachycarpus) and the cycad coontie (Zamia).

Vegetables and Herbs: Continue to start seeds of cool season vegetables such as radish, lettuce, mustard greens, spinach, kale, arugula, beets, brussels sprouts, kohlrabi, Mexican tarragon, celery, cabbage, Chinese cabbage, Swiss chard, endive, carrots, cauliflower, broccoli, collards, and turnips. See our handout Starting Plants from Seeds Indoors CLICK HERE!. Some crops with roots may be difficult to transplant so should either be direct sown into the garden or started in decomposable pots. Others like broccoli, cauliflower, brussels sprouts and lettuce are more reliable and easier to space as transplants. Begin planting transplants once the summer heat breaks. It’s time to plant onion sets and garlic bulbs. Since they are grown as an annual crop here, strawberries can be planted September through November. Some of these vegetables, like spinach, carrots, kale and Swiss chard, can survive in your garden all winter. See our handout Planting Guide for North Florida Vegetables for vegetable growing information CLICK HERE!

You may still be able to plant tomatoes at this time if done early in the month. Plant them deeply; only about 4 inches of the top of the plant needs to extend above the soil. This is the only vegetable you can plant this way, but it allows the stem to produce more roots to feed the plant. Very tall transplants can be laid on their side in a trench with just the top above ground. Leave a small depression around the plant for a water reservoir. See our handout What Matters with ‘Maters to help you decide which tomatoes to grow CLICK HERE!.

These herbs can be started as seeds now, or planted as transplants: chives, oregano, rosemary, salad burnet, sage, thyme, winter savory, lemon balm, lovage, ‘Phenomenal’ lavender, Spanish lavender, and mint. Dill and parsley can be started this month from seed, and bay laurel, African blue basil, basil, fennel and sorrel can be planted as transplants. Some of these herbs will grow through winter. Of the more commonly grown herbs, parsley, chives, cilantro (too early to start this month), dill, fennel, some mints, oregano, rosemary, garden sage and thyme can survive freezing temperatures. Less hardy into fall and winter are basil and stevia, and the cilantro and Cuban oregano you finished planting last month. Some of the herbs like dill, fennel and lavender may attract beneficial insects. See our handouts Planting Guide for North Florida Culinary Herbs CLICK HERE! and Herbs for North Florida CLICK HERE!, for more growing and use information.

What to Do

What to Do for Specific Plants

Avocados – If not done last month, you may want to apply a final fertilization of your avocado tree for the season. Fertilizer requirements change with the age and fruiting status of the tree. The amount of fertilizer should be proportionate to the size of the tree, not to exceed 20 lbs per tree per year. Use a fertilizer with a 6-6-6 to a 10-10-10 ratio with added 4-6% magnesium for young trees. Increase the potassium (third number) to 9-15% and reduce phosphorous (second number) to 2-4% for bearing trees.

Azaleas – Although the nutritional requirements of azaleas are low compared to most shrubs, they can benefit from frequent light applications of an acid-forming fertilizer containing iron and other micronutrients, in sandy soils. Apply a final slow release acid fertilizer this month, in a ratio similar to 2-1-1.

Bamboo – Bamboos should receive 3-4 applications yearly of a slow release high-nitrogen fertilizer with the winter application being light. If you haven’t fertilized for a few months, then you should do so now.

Bananas – Feed ½ to 1 lb. dry fertilizer in a ratio of 3-1-6 plus magnesium every 1-2 months for plants under 6 months, 1 to 2 lb. for 6-12 month-old plants, 2-3 lb. for plants 12 to 18 months old and 3-4 lb. for those plants over 18 months. This should be done during the growing season in zone 9 (or throughout the year in warmer areas). One to two foliar applications of a nutrient spray containing magnesium, manganese and zinc should be applied between April and October so if not done in September, it could be done this month. Also, iron should be applied to the soil once or twice between April and October. Monitor banana stalks for weevil infestation and the leaves for sigatoka, a fungal leaf-spot disease. Prune out developing suckers to maintain 3-4 stalks of different ages – one that may be left to flower and fruit, another about half the size and 1-2 more suckers. The trick to getting fruit is to protect the pseudostem from freezing this fall and winter so you start with a well developed pseudostem in early spring. Look for directions next month on how to overwinter your banana plant.

Blueberry – Maintain several inches of acid-forming mulch such as pine bark, pine straw, or oak leaves. This can be the final month of the season for a light application of acid fertilizer, spread evenly over a circle 2′ in diameter with the plant in the center. The circle can be larger as the plant grows, using 1, 2 and 3 ounces of 12-4-8 plus 2% Mg. Use ammoniacal nitrogen or nitrogen from urea or organic sources, rather than from nitrate sources, and low chlorine levels. A “blueberry special” or “camellia-azalea” fertilizer should be suitable. More fertilizer may be needed if plants are heavily mulched.

Camellias – Newly planted camellias don’t need fertilizer.

Cane berries – Blackberries: The need for irrigation will decline by fall but is especially important in the first year. Weed control is also very important. Raspberries: Watch for powdery mildew and remove and destroy infected plant parts; spray remaining plant material with a fungicide.

Citrus – Fertilize citrus with a balanced fertilizer (for example an 8-8-8 analysis) in early October if not done last month, for a final feeding during the growing season. If the weather has been rainy, do not use soluble nitrogen as rains will leach it from the soil too quickly. If you are growing your citrus in a container it should be moved indoors before a freeze. See our handout Citrus Care Guide for more information. CLICK HERE!

Drift Roses – Prune a final time for the season in late summer/early fall to remove older looking foliage and encourage a new flush of foliage and flowers for fall. Drift roses can be fertilized at the same time. For more details, see our handout Drift Rose Care. CLICK HERE!

Fig – If fig rust is active, control with a Bordeaux spray (5-5-50 ratio of copper sulfate, lime and water) applied every 2-3 weeks.

Gardenia – Gardenias bloom on both new and old wood, with different varieties blooming predominantly differently on one versus the other. Any light pruning should have taken place by now. If you have an old gardenia that is overgrown or become spindly, it should be renovated in 3 steps. Pruning should begin in early fall but should be light (removing about one fourth of the foliage) so it’s less likely to suffer cold damage. Plan to prune again next year in early March and a third time after blooming, around mid-summer. Follow calendar instructions for those months next year. Scout for mealy bugs, aphids, scales and whiteflies. Insecticidal soaps or horticultural oils can help.

Ginger– If nights become cool enough this month for the foliage to die back, dig up the roots, which will have multiplied. Harvest some and plant some back into the ground for next year’s crop.

Hibiscus – Scout your hibiscus regularly for pests such as aphids, whiteflies and mealybugs. If caught early they are easily controlled with insecticidal soaps or horticulture oils. You should never use the pesticide malathion on hibiscus.

Hydrangea – Flower buds are forming now on oakleaf hydrangeas (Hydrangea quercifolia), and on mophead and lacecap hydrangeas (H. macrophylla), including reblooming varieties that also flower on new wood. Pruning is inadvisable; also resist simple deadheading or cutting late blooms for arrangements, unless cutting above the first set of large leaves.

Late summer and fall may bring a leaf spot disease which appears as small brown or purple spots on leaves. It does not usually threaten plant health and can be controlled by removing dead and diseased leaves and avoiding overhead irrigation. Powdery mildew can also occur in fall, also not usually threatening plant health. The best way to prevent this is by using resistant varieties of hydrangea.

Knockout Roses – Prune a final time for the season in late summer/early fall to remove older looking foliage and encourage a new flush of foliage and flowers for fall. Knockout roses can be fertilized at the same time. For more details, see our handout Knockout Rose Care. CLICK HERE!

Landscape beds – Although organic matter can be added any time of year to improve the quality of the soil and provide a nutrient reserve, many gardeners add 1-3″ in fall so that by spring, soil organisms will have worked the compost into the soil. Move your mulch out of the way and after adding organic matter, replace deteriorating mulch with a new 2-3″ layer. This will moderate soil temperatures, retain soil moisture, reduce erosion and weeds and add additional organic matter as it decomposes. Mulch also creates an attractive unified look to highlight your plantings. Florida’s warm and often wet weather can lead to rapid breakdown of mulch. We can help you determine how much mulch you need for a specific area.

Continue to fertilize annuals to extend the bloom season into fall but take care not to over-fertilize.

Continue to monitor disease in landscape beds. Fungal disease can occur almost any time of year, especially if the landscape is over watered or watered at the wrong time of day. Watch for powdery mildew late in the growing season. Remove all the infected plant parts and destroy, do not compost, them. Follow with a spray of fungicide. Effective organic fungicides for treating powdery mildew include sulfur, lime-sulfur, neem oil, and potassium bicarbonate.

Also continue to frequently scout landscape and garden beds (indoor plants too!) for insects such as scale, whiteflies, aphids, mealy bugs and leaf beetles as they are easier to control when first noticed. Pest pressure may be high for fall crops. Aphids can sometimes be controlled with sprays of water or by picking them up with a vacuum or sticky tape. Insecticidal soaps can also be used but these will harm Monarch butterflies and their young, so typically aren’t used on Butterfly Weed/Asclepias. Spinosad is particularly effective on thrips and caterpillars (also leafminers, spider mites, mosquitoes, ants and fruit flies) and lasts up to 4 weeks. Additionally, it is safe for people, beneficial insects and adult butterflies, and safe for bees once it has dried.

Spray spider mites with good coverage of a horticultural oil or use insecticidal soap in several applications. Neem oil is a good combination product that can be used to combat insects, mites and fungus.

Beneficial insects such as ladybug beetles and lacewing can control soft-bodied insect pests. To maximize the effectiveness of these natural enemies, provide habitat and relief from high temperatures by increasing the amount and diversity of plants in your landscape. Refer to our handout Ladybugs, for storage and release information. CLICK HERE!

Lawns – Continue to mow but less frequently when the weather begins to cool and days get shorter. Never remove more than 1/3 of the leaf blade at a time and mow to the highest recommended height to support root growth. Here are the recommended mowing heights for several N. Florida grasses: Bahia grass at 3-4 “, Zoysiagrass coarse textured varieties at 2 to 2½” and fine textured at 1″, Centipedegrass at 1½ to 2½”, Seashore Paspalum at 1½ to 2″, and St. Augustinegrass at 2½” for dwarf and semi-dwarf cultivars such as Delmar, Seville and Captiva, and 3.5 to 4″ for standard St. Augustinegrass, especially if growing in shade. To maintain at a height of 4″, grass should be mowed before it grows to a height above 6″. Sharpen mower blades frequently, even monthly, to avoid damage to the grass which could allow disease to enter. Avoid mowing when grass is wet.

Applying lime, when needed, can be done in the fall but a soil test should be done first. Lime is often not needed here and raising the soil pH can impair performance, and even kill grass if it is too high.

Fungal disease in lawns continues to be a problem in early fall as in summer, when Florida receives the majority of its rain. Susceptible lawns may see the return of Large Patch if it wasn’t controlled in spring. Take-all Root Rot is also prevalent this time of year, can occur in any warm-season turfgrass and is intensified by any type of stress. Initially, yellowish foliage eventually turns brown and wilts. As the turf thins, brown, irregular patches develop from 1 to more than 20′ in diameter. The roots of infected grass are usually blackened and rotted. You can tell the difference between Take-all and Large Patch disease by the stems. Grass blades with Large Patch have rotten stems which can be slipped easily from the base of the plant.

The best action against fungal diseases is proper lawn care. Avoid over-watering and over-fertilizing. Adjusting the soil pH to neutral or slightly acidic levels may reduce Take-all Root Rot over time. Fungicides such as Bonide Infuse Systemic Disease Control can be useful to control Take-all Root Rot and other fungal diseases once they show in your lawn, but preventive applications need to begin about June for Take-all root rot and early spring for Large Patch, before symptoms appear. If your lawn has experienced these diseases, you can plan for prevention next year.

For the best weed prevention and control in lawns, follow mowing, irrigation and fertilization recommendations. Hand-pull weeds that are setting seed, to ensure seed removal. Post-emergent herbicides are less effective if the weed is mature, producing seed, under drought stress, or if mowed within several days of herbicide application. But if herbicides are required, Fertilome Weed Free Zone is a post-emergent herbicide for broad leaf weeds useful in 45-90°F temperatures. It shouldn’t however be used on the Floratam variety of St. Augustinegrass. Fertilome Selective is useful for spot treatment in temperatures between 50-85°. To control nut-sedge and dollar weed, make sure you’re not creating favorable conditions by over-watering your lawn. Best herbicidal control of these are with young, growing weeds. Always choose an herbicide that lists your lawn type on the label and follow instructions carefully as they can vary.

Potential problem lawn insects in October continue to be Southern chinch bug, fall armyworms, mole crickets and tropical sod webworm.

Chinch bugs prefer hot, dry conditions. They suck the juices from St. Augustinegrass at or just below the soil level. Yellowish to burnt-brownish patches are often first noticed in sunny areas along sidewalks and driveways, or in poorly irrigated areas. To help control the problem, limit nitrogen fertilizer and reduce thatch thickness to minimize the bug’s habitat.

Newly hatched larvae of tropical sod webworm skeletonize grass blades while older larvae chew on grass blades near soil surface. Small patches of grass may look ragged and irregular. The adult moth does not cause damage but the life cycle from egg to adult only requires 5-6 weeks at 78°F.

Fall armyworm caterpillars skeletonize grass blades then later create bare spots.

Younger caterpillars of both armyworm and webworm are more easily controlled with reduced-risk products like B.t., halofenozide and spinosad. Bifenthrin also targets both these caterpillars and chinch bugs. Rotate combination products to reduce resistant populations and spot treat when possible.

Adult mole crickets are about 1 1/2 inches long, light brown, and have enlarged forelegs that they use to dig in soil. They feed at night during warm weather, after rain or irrigation. They also fly for 1-2 hours at dusk so outdoor lighting may attract them to your yard. Mole crickets cause damage by tunneling (dislodging and drying out plants), and by feeding on grass roots and blades. Small mounds of pushed up soil, reduced turf density and patches of bare soil may be seen. A number of cultural, biological and chemical controls are useful in combination against mole crickets, but chemical treatments are best done by mid-June when they are small.

In weedy areas and open fields, Lubber Grasshopper adults may be found from March to November. It may be possible to avoid the use of an insecticide by hand-picking the grasshoppers and mowing vegetation to appropriate heights.

Proper lawn care involves many tasks. A landscape maintenance program is a convenient way to keep up with the needs of your lawn.

Palms – Fertilize palms about every other month during the growing season, so if you didn’t fertilize last month then do so this month. Palms need a high potassium to nitrogen ratio plus added magnesium so an 8-2-12 fertilizer with 4% magnesium works well. Prune out only dead leaves (when they occur).

Pomegranate – For a one-year-old tree, apply 1/3 to 2/3 cup of a balanced 10-10-10 formula fertilizer this month, if not done in September. Scratch it lightly into the soil at the tree’s root zone, in a circle 1 or 2 feet in diameter, or larger if the tree is older. If the tree is in its second year, use about twice as much fertilizer, and about 3 times as much in the third year and beyond.

Strawberries – Strawberries are best planted in September through November in north Florida and grown as an annual because of our summer heat. Outside of Florida, most strawberry plants are grown over several years (perennial) so appropriate guidelines to grow them here are difficult to find in the general information base. Plant in mounds or otherwise well-draining soil that is also high in organic matter. Without a soil sample, mix 1-2 pounds per 100 square feet of a balanced ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium 6″ into the soil before planting. At least one-half of the nitrogen in the fertilizer should be in a slow release form. If you prefer growing organic strawberries, blood meal can be used to increase nitrogen, bone meal can be used to increase phosphates and a wood ash mulch can be added for potassium. Mulch with pine straw needles to increase soil acidity and keep fruit clean. Too much N causes malformed fruit, excessive vegetative growth and fewer fruits. Excess K leads to smaller and fewer fruits. Boron is a micronutrient that may be deficient in your soil for strawberries.

Remove runners as you notice them start to develop. This will direct more energy to berry production.

Fungal problems may start with wet weather. Most diseases on leaves, flowers, or fruits can be controlled with fungicides for home garden use; make sure the label specifies it can be used on strawberries. Sulfur can control powdery mildew but make sure temperatures are cooler than 80°F before applying sulfur to avoid burning fruit and foliage. Watch for aphids and thrips.

Turmeric – Harvest bright yellow underground rhizomes in fall when the plant goes dormant.

What to Do in General:

Start a fall garden – If you haven’t already, now is the time to start your fall vegetable garden. You can refer to our handouts Start a Fall Vegetable Garden CLICK HERE! and Starting Plants from Seeds Indoors CLICK HERE! to get you started. If you’ve had previous crops, you should consider some crop rotation to avoid building pests in your garden. See our handout Planting Guide for North Florida Vegetables CLICK HERE! for family designation of crops so you can avoid planting successive families. The What to Plant section of this calendar lists the appropriate crops to start this month.

Clean out the summer crops that are spent and remove any other debris. Don’t compost anything that looks diseased as the heat may not kill certain diseases and nematodes. Reinforce raised bed structures if needed or clean up the boundaries of your beds. A soil test would be advisable at this point; you can use the Duval County Extension Service (http://soilslab.ifas.ufl.edu/ESTL%20Home.asp). Based on test results, add recommended amounts of fertilizer. Next add organic matter. Compost improves soil and plant growth regardless of the type of soil you’re adding it to. Spread a 3-4 inch layer over the bed and lightly work in. Refer to our handout Start a Fall Vegetable Garden CLICK HERE! to complete planting.

Feed vegetables a slow/continuous release organic fertilizer applied every 3 to 4 weeks (herbs at half strength). In general, even though it’s a little costlier, try to use a slow release fertilizer or fertilizer with at least 30% as a slow release component. These feed plants more consistently and lessen pollution.

Irrigate – Complete watering restrictions and schedules for Duval County can be found at this link: www.sjrwmd.com/wateringrestrictions. Irrigation systems should be checked at least monthly for breaks or misaligned spray heads. Although the frequency you water turf will change seasonally, the amount should always be ½ to ¾” of water per watering. For most Florida soils this delivers the most water to plants without causing runoff. To determine how long it takes to deliver the correct amount of water to your landscape, you can use the ‘can method’ suggested by the U. FL (http://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/care/irrigation/calibrating-your-irrigation-system.html). Also keep in mind that your irrigation system should be set to accommodate plantings differently than for turf. If you’ve watered your winter tender plants correctly over the summer, they will more likely come through a hard winter unscathed. Rockaway, Inc.’s Maintenance Service Division can evaluate the operation and delivery of your irrigation system for turf and plantings.

Prepare for possible hurricanes – Prune any dead limbs and open up trees to allow for better airflow. Install lightning protection on tall high value trees. Have a plan to remove and store, or tie down, garden art, pots, hanging baskets, bird feeders, grills and other yard structures. If a hurricane is imminent, remove debris from storm drains to ensure a clear path for storm water. Clean out gutters and downspouts. Remove coconuts and large palm seeds that could release in the storm and cause serious damage. Turn automatic sprinkler systems off. Do not empty your pool; protect your pump and pool equipment.

When planning your landscape, avoid planting fast growing trees that have brittle wood. Wind resistant trees for North Florida include Live Oak, Sand Live Oak, Dogwood, Dahoon Holly, Yaupon Holly, Inkberry, American Holly, Crape Myrtle, Southern Magnolia, Podocarpus and Cabbage Palm. Most palms in general, except Queen Palm and Washington Palm, are more resistant than broad-leaved and conifer trees.

Harvest – These should be fruiting now: Fig trees, pecans, some pomegranates, persimmons, and avocados, satsuma tangerines, page tangelos, oranges, limes, limequats, goji berries and nantahala raspberries.

Divide – Multi-stemmed clumping perennials or bulbs may need to be divided if they haven’t been rejuvenated in 5 or 6 years. Amaryllis are best dug and divided in fall after blooming and leaves have started to yellow and die back. Agapanthus can also be divided in early fall after flowering if they need it. Offsets from yucca and agave plants can be removed from the original plant at any time, although well-rooted and larger offsets result in faster establishment.

Take Cuttings – You may want to take stem cuttings from cold sensitive plants in your garden to be able to plant them again next year. This method works for most of these plants: take 4-6″ pieces of stem from branch tips, removing at least an inch of the lower leaves. The cut end can be dipped in a root stimulator powder and placed ½ to 1″ into moist potting soil in small pots. Keep moist but not soggy, and in the shade until needing to move them to a bright indoor location.

Force Blooms – See our handouts on Christmas Cactus Care CLICK HERE! and Amaryllis CLICK HERE! for information on encouraging these plants to bloom for the holidays, outside of their normal season. Christmas cactus need about 8-10 weeks of treatment to flower and Amaryllis bulbs 5-10 weeks. You can also force paper whites following the Amaryllis handout, or both can also flower in 3-5 inches of gravel as a base in a non-draining container, then covered 2/3 up the bulb with gravel and watered until the water just touches the bottom of the bulb.

Relocate Houseplants – Prepare to bring houseplants back inside if they have been out for the summer. Especially if overhead cover is provided, some plants typically grown in the home are fine in short term temperatures close to freezing, but others need to be above 50°, so know what you have. Remove any dead or dying foliage. Lightly spray them down with the garden hose and wipe leaves with a sponge to remove dust and insects. A dose of insecticidal soap or Spinosad may be needed before bringing plants indoors but continue to watch since one application may not be enough. Water your plants less often in the winter (see our handout Houseplant Watering Fundamentals). CLICK HERE!

From our office in Atlantic Beach and satellites throughout Northeast Florida, Rockaway Inc proudly serves clients in Jacksonville, St Augustine, Atlantic Beach, Neptune Beach, Jacksonville Beach, Ponte Vedra, Nocatee, and Fernandina Beach.

The post October Gardening Tips for North Florida appeared first on Rockaway Sustainable Landscaping - Jacksonville FL.

• What To Plant
• What To Do

September’s Climate Data:
Average Total Precipitation: 7.53″
Average High Temperature: 85.5°
Average Low Temperature: 74.3°

Average First Frost Date for the season: Dec. 11 to Dec. 20.

CLICK HERE FOR CONSULTATION FORM!

What to Plant

Annuals (Or Grown As Annuals): See our handout on Chrysanthemums for tips on how to keep these flowering longer and prettier. CLICK HERE! Some of the flowers you planted last spring, such as angelonia and pentas, may still be flowering or can be replanted this time of year. You can also plant marigolds (Tagetes) for a long bloom season, caladium, cleome, floss flower (Ageratum), melampodium, verbena, and zinnia. You can continue planting begonia, blue daze (Evolvulus), celosia, coleus (Plectranthus), gold dust (Mecardonia), purslane (Portulaca), sunpatiens (Impatiens), sweet potato vine (Ipomoea) and Vinca (Catharanthus) for a short time.

Perennials: African iris (Dietes), Agapanthus, asters, baptisia, blanket flower (Gaillardia), bulbine, canna lily, cone flower (Echinacea), coreopsis, creeping Jenny (Lysimachia), day lily (Hemerocallis), dune sunflower (Helianthus), elephant ear (Alocasia, Colocasia), ferns, gaura, iris, Mexican petunia (Ruellia), ornamental grasses Regina iris (Neomarica) and yarrow are a sampling of perennials which can be planted now. You can install groundcovers and border plants like ajuga, Asiatic jasmine (Trachelospermum), autumn fern (Dryopteris), Aztec grass (Liriopogon), blue-eyed grass (Sisyrinchium), blueberry flax (Dianella), creeping fig (Ficus), foxtail fern (Asparagus), holly fern (Cyrtomium), lily turf (Liriope), mondo grass (Ophiopogon) and society garlic (Tulbaghia). Plant Amaryllis bulbs indoors for holiday flowers – see our handout on growing Amaryllis CLICK HERE!. Also see the plants listed below (Nectar Plants).

Nectar Plants for Migrating Hummingbirds and Monarchs: This is an important time of year to ensure that the Ruby-throated Hummingbirds and Monarch Butterflies that migrate south from our area have enough fuel to complete their journeys to Mexico or the Caribbean. Flowers which both will feed on include agastache, bottlebrush (Callistemon), butterfly bush (Buddleia), cardinal flower (Lobelia cardinalis), lollipop verbena (Verbena bonariensis), Mexican sunflower (Tithonia rotundifolia), passion vine (Passiflora), both red and blue porterweed (Stachytarpheta), salvia ‘Black and Blue’ (Salvia guaranitica) and zinnia. Milkweed (Asclepias) continues to be a crucial plant for Monarchs as the caterpillars used it as their only food source earlier in the year, and now it provides nectar for the adults. Native milkweeds are the safest to use as there is some controversy over the use of tropical milkweeds (Asclepias curassavica) posing a risk to the butterflies. However, tropical milkweeds can be safely used if cut back periodically. Hummingbirds will also feed on milkweed. Additional flowers that hummingbirds are particularly attracted to and should be flowering at this time are beebalm (Monarda), cape honeysuckle (Tecoma capensis), firebush (Hamelia), firespike (Odontonema), jacobinia (Justicia carnea), lantana, powderpuff (Calliandra), many salvias including scarlet sage (Salvia splendens), Mexican bush sage (S. leucantha) and Wendy’s Wish salvia, shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeana), tropical hibiscus, trumpet creeper (Campsis), and yellow bells (Tecoma stans).

Succulents: Succulents are always useful. Cold hardy succulents can be planted outdoors and tender succulents make great indoor plants where bright light is available.

CLICK HERE FOR CARE GUIDES!

Palms, Shrubs and Trees: September rains help establish new palms, shrubs and trees. Unless they are considered tropical or subtropical, it is generally a good time to plant. Most tropicals would need more time to maximize their growth and establishment before winter if planted in-ground. Plant trees and shrubs blooming at this time such as Crape Myrtle (Lagerstroemia), so you can get a first-hand look at the flower. Camellias will also be blooming soon. Remember to ‘Dial Before You Dig’ (811) if the hole is deeper than your shovel blade.

Vegetables and Herbs: Start seeds of cool season vegetables such as radish, lettuce, mustard greens, spinach, kale, arugula, beets, brussels sprouts, kohlrabi, Mexican tarragon, celery, cabbage, Chinese cabbage, Swiss chard, endive, carrots, cauliflower, broccoli, collards, and turnips. Some crops with roots may be difficult to transplant so should either be direct sown into the garden or started in decomposable pots. Others like broccoli, cauliflower, brussels sprouts and lettuce are more reliable and easier to space as transplants. It’s time to plant onion sets and garlic bulbs. You can also begin planting strawberries. Some of these vegetables, like spinach, carrots, kale and Swiss chard, can survive in your garden all winter. Early September is probably the last time to plant large pepper and eggplant transplants, bush beans, pole beans and squash. See our handout Planting Guide for North Florida Vegetables for vegetable growing information. CLICK HERE!

With the worst of the summer heat over but still time to produce before frost, tomato transplants can be planted. Plant them deeply; only about 4 inches of the top of the plant needs to extend above the soil. This is the only vegetable you can plant this way, but it allows the stem to produce more roots to feed the plant. Very tall transplants can be laid on their side in a trench with just the top above ground. Leave a small depression around the plant for a water reservoir. See our handout What Matters with ‘Maters to help you decide which tomatoes to grow CLICK HERE!

These herbs can be started as seeds now, or planted as transplants: chives, Cuban oregano, oregano, rosemary, salad burnet, sage, thyme, winter savory, culantro, lemon balm, lovage, ‘Phenomenal’ lavender, Spanish lavender, and mint. Dill, parsley, and nasturtium can be started this month from seed, and bay laurel, African blue basil, basil and sorrel can be planted as transplants. Some of these herbs will grow through winter. Of the more commonly grown herbs, parsley, chives, cilantro (too early to start this month), Cuban oregano, dill, some mints, oregano, rosemary, garden sage and thyme can survive freezing temperatures. Less hardy into fall and winter are basil, culantro, Cuban oregano and stevia. See our handouts Planting Guide for North Florida Culinary Herbs CLICK HERE! and Herbs for North Florida CLICK HERE! for more growing and use information.

What to Do

What to Do for Specific Plants

Avocados – You may want to apply a final fertilization of your avocado tree for the season. Fertilizer requirements change with the age and fruiting status of the tree. The amount of fertilizer should be proportionate to the size of the tree, not to exceed 20 lbs per tree per year. Use a fertilizer with a 6-6-6 to a 10-10-10 ratio with added 4-6% magnesium for young trees. Increase the potassium (third number) to 9-15% and reduce phosphorous (second number) to 2-4% for bearing trees. Trees should also receive a nutritional spray of copper, zinc, manganese, and boron this month, unless the tree is older than 5 years. Trees older than 5 years shouldn’t need copper.

Azaleas – Although the nutritional requirements of azaleas are low compared to most shrubs, they can benefit from frequent light applications of an acid-forming fertilizer containing iron and other micronutrients, in sandy soils. Frequent late summer rains may leach out nutrients – if leaves begin to yellow, they may indicate a need for pH adjustment or nutrition.

Bananas – Feed ½ to 1 lb. dry fertilizer in a ratio of 3-1-6 plus magnesium every 1-2 months for plants under 6 months, 1 to 2 lb. for 6-12 month-old plants, 2-3 lb. for plants 12 to 18 months old and 3-4 lb. for those plants over 18 months. This should be done throughout the year, or at least during the growing season in zone 9. One to two foliar applications of a nutrient spray containing magnesium, manganese and zinc should be applied between April and October so September would be a good time. Also, iron should be applied to the soil once or twice between April and October. Monitor banana stalks for weevil infestation and the leaves for sigatoka, a fungal leaf-spot disease. Prune out developing suckers to maintain 3-4 stalks of different ages – one that may be left to flower and fruit, another about half the size and 1-2 more suckers.

Blueberry – Maintain several inches of acid-forming mulch such as pine bark, pine straw, or oak leaves.

Camellias – Feed a final application of fertilizer this month, with moderate nitrogen and phosphate, and higher potassium numbers. For camellias in containers, use one of the organic sources of nitrogen, such as cotton seed meal, applied once a month all year long.

Cane berries – Blackberries: During the second year of growth and thereafter, fertilize in the summer after harvest with ¼-½ lb 10-10-10 with micronutrients per plant or about 10 lbs per 100 feet of row.

Citrus – Fertilize citrus with a balanced fertilizer either this month or in early October for a final feeding during the growing season. If the weather has been rainy, do not use soluble nitrogen as rains will leach it from the soil too quickly. See our handout Citrus Care Guide for more information. CLICK HERE!

Containers – Follow recommendations for the plant that is in the container. Nutrient leaching is a bigger problem in containers because of more frequent watering. A slow release fertilizer will provide steady release of nutrients, but it may need to be supplemented by more frequent soluble fertilizers about every 2 weeks, depending on the plant.

Drift Roses – Prune a final time for the season in late summer/early fall to remove older looking foliage and encourage a new flush of foliage and flowers for fall. Drift roses can be fertilized at the same time. For more details, see our handout Drift Rose Care. CLICK HERE!

Fig – If fig rust is active, control with a Bordeaux spray (5-5-50 ratio of copper sulfate, lime and water) applied every 2-3 weeks.

Fruiting shrubs and trees – Fruiting shrubs and trees generally need more fertilizer during the year than other shrubs and trees. Recommendations for fruit tree products and frequency depends on the type of tree, but a peach/pecan or citrus formula can be used for most following harvest.

Gardenia – Give gardenias a final seasonal feeding this month with a granular acid-forming product that is at least 30-50% slow release nitrogen.Gardenias bloom on both new and old wood, with different varieties blooming predominantly differently on one versus the other. The safest time to prune to lightly shape but avoid affecting next year’s display is just after blooming and before October 1st. If you have an old gardenia that is overgrown or become spindly, it should be renovated in 3 steps. Pruning should begin in early fall but should be light (removing about one fourth of the foliage) so it’s less likely to suffer cold damage. Plan to prune again next year in early March and a third time after blooming, around mid-summer. Follow calendar instructions for those months next year.

Ginger – If nights become cool enough this month for the foliage to die back, dig up the roots, which will have multiplied. Harvest some and plant some back into the ground for next year’s crop.

Hibiscus – Scout your hibiscus regularly for pests such as aphids, whiteflies and mealybugs. If caught early they are easily controlled with insecticidal soaps or horticulture oils. You should never use the pesticide malathion on hibiscus. Hibiscus do best with frequent, light feedings during active growth, in an approximate N-P-K ratio of 17-5-24. Never fertilize a hibiscus in dry soil.

Holly – Fertilize newly planted hollies, and established hollies if nutrient deficiency is suspected (the second of two seasonal applications). Use a holly, azalea or camellia fertilizer. If the holly is part of a hedge, you can still shear it at this time of year.

Hydrangea – Flower buds are forming now on oakleaf hydrangeas (Hydrangea quercifolia), and on mophead and lacecap hydrangeas (H. macrophylla), including reblooming varieties that also flower on new wood. Pruning is inadvisable; also resist simple deadheading or cutting late blooms for arrangements, unless cutting above the first set of large leaves. Late summer and fall may bring a leaf spot disease which appears as small brown or purple spots on leaves. It does not usually threaten plant health and can be controlled by removing dead and diseased leaves and avoiding overhead irrigation. Powdery mildew can also occur in fall, also not usually threatening plant health. The best way to prevent this is by using resistant varieties.

Knockout Roses – Prune a final time for the season in late summer/early fall to remove older looking foliage and encourage a new flush of foliage and flowers for fall. Knockout roses can be fertilized at the same time. For more details, see our handout Knockout Rose Care. CLICK HERE!

Landscape beds – Although organic matter can be added any time of year to improve the quality of the soil and provide a nutrient reserve, many gardeners add 1-3″ in fall so that by spring, soil organisms will have worked the compost into the soil. Move your mulch out of the way and after adding organic matter, replace deteriorating mulch with a new 2-3″ layer. This will moderate soil temperatures, retain soil moisture, reduce erosion and weeds and add additional organic matter as it decomposes. Mulch also creates an attractive unified look to highlight your plantings. Florida’s warm and often wet weather can lead to rapid breakdown of mulch.

Continue to fertilize annuals and perennials to extend the bloom season into fall but take care not to over-fertilize. Select a fertilizer with at least one third of its nitrogen as a slow release (non-water-soluble) form. GreenEdge is a superior, environmentally sound, slow release fertilizer with organic nitrogen in a 16-0-8 plus 1% Mg formula for your garden.

Continue to monitor disease in landscape beds. Fungal disease can occur almost any time of year, especially if the landscape is over watered or watered at the wrong time of day. Watch for powdery mildew late in the growing season. Remove all the infected plant parts and destroy, do not compost, them. Follow with a spray of fungicide. Effective organic fungicides for treating powdery mildew include sulfur, lime-sulfur, neem oil, and potassium bicarbonate. Bonide Infuse Systemic Disease Control is a chemical fungicide useful for preventing and controlling fungal growth.

Also continue to frequently scout landscape and garden beds (indoor plants too!) for insects such as scale, whiteflies, aphids, mealy bugs and leaf beetles as they are easier to control when first noticed. Pest pressure may be high for fall crops. Aphids can sometimes be controlled with sprays of water or by picking them up with a vacuum or sticky tape. Insecticidal soaps can also be used but these will harm Monarch butterflies and their young, so typically aren’t used on Butterfly Weed/Asclepias. Spinosad is particularly effective on thrips and caterpillars (also leafminers, spider mites, mosquitoes, ants and fruit flies) and lasts up to 4 weeks. Additionally, it is safe for people, beneficial insects and adult butterflies, and safe for bees once it has dried.

Spray spider mites with good coverage of a horticultural oil or use insecticidal soap in several applications. Neem oil is a good combination product that can be used to combat insects, mites and fungus.

Beneficial insects such as ladybug beetles and lacewing can control soft-bodied insect pests. To maximize the effectiveness of these natural enemies, provide habitat and relief from high temperatures by increasing the amount and diversity of plants in your landscape.

Lawns – Continue to mow but less frequently when the weather begins to cool and days get shorter. Never remove more than 1/3 of the leaf blade at a time and mow to the highest recommended height to support root growth. Here are the recommended mowing heights for several N. Florida grasses: Bahia grass at 3-4 “, Zoysiagrass coarse textured varieties at 2 to 2½” and fine textured at 1″, Centipedegrass at 1½ to 2½”, Seashore Paspalum at 1½ to 2″, and St. Augustinegrass at 2½” for dwarf and semi-dwarf cultivars such as Delmar, Seville and Captiva, and 3.5 to 4″ for standard St. Augustinegrass, especially if growing in shade. To maintain at a height of 4″, grass should be mowed before it grows to a height above 6″. Sharpen mower blades frequently, even monthly, to avoid damage to the grass which could allow disease to enter. Avoid mowing when grass is wet.

The fertilizer recommendation for low maintenance lawns is to receive 2 fertilizations yearly (no more than 2-4 lbs.) with the final application in September. However, specific direction depends on the species of turf, it’s current nutrition and fertility of the soil. An annual soil test can prevent over and under-fertilization of lawns, both of which can be harmful. Use a product that has equal amounts of nitrogen and potassium and no more than 2% phosphorous (15-0-15, 20-0-20 or 18-2-18 for example), unless a soil test shows a need for phosphorous. A fertilizer containing controlled-release nitrogen, like GreenEdge or Nitroganic, will give a longer lasting, more consistent result.

Fungal disease continues to be a problem in early fall as in summer, when Florida receives the majority of its rain. Take-all Root Rot is prevalent this time of year, can occur in any warm-season turfgrass and is intensified by any type of stress. Initially, yellowish foliage eventually turns brown and wilts. As the turf thins, brown, irregular patches develop from 1 to more than 20′ in diameter. The roots of infected grass are usually blackened and rotted. You can tell the difference between Take-all and Large Patch disease by the stems. Grass blades with Large Patch have rotten stems which can be slipped easily from the base of the plant.

The best action against fungal diseases is proper lawn care. Adjusting the soil pH to neutral or slightly acidic levels may reduce Take-all Root Rot over time. Fungicides such as Bonide Infuse Systemic Disease Control can be useful to control Take-all Root Rot and other fungal diseases once they show in your lawn, but preventive applications need to begin about June, before symptoms appear. If your lawn has experienced this disease, you can plan for prevention next year.

For the best weed prevention and control in lawns, follow mowing, irrigation and fertilization recommendations. Hand-pull weeds that are setting seed, to ensure seed removal. Post-emergent herbicides are less effective if the weed is mature, producing seed, under drought stress, or if mowed within several days of herbicide application. To control nut-sedge and dollar weed, make sure you’re not creating favorable conditions by over-watering your lawn. Best herbicidal control of these are with young, growing weeds. Always choose an herbicide that lists your lawn type on the label and follow instructions carefully as they can vary.

Although it will probably come next month in October, be prepared to take advantage of the window for pre-emergent treating of weeds. These herbicides should be applied when temperatures at night are 55-60°F for several consecutive days.

Southern chinch bug, fall armyworms, mole crickets and tropical sod webworm can be present in lawns during September.

Chinch bugs prefer hot, dry conditions. They suck the juices from St. Augustinegrass at or just below the soil level. Yellowish to burnt-brownish patches are often first noticed in sunny areas along sidewalks and driveways, or in poorly irrigated areas. To help control the problem, limit nitrogen fertilizer and reduce thatch thickness to minimize the bug’s habitat.

Newly hatched larvae of tropical sod webworm skeletonize grass blades while older larvae chew on grass blades near soil surface. Small patches of grass may look ragged and irregular. The adult moth does not cause damage but the life cycle from egg to adult only requires 5-6 weeks at 78°F.

Fall armyworm caterpillars skeletonize grass blades then later create bare spots.

Younger caterpillars of both armyworm and webworm are more easily controlled with reduced-risk products like B.t., halofenozide and spinosad. Bifenthrin also targets both these caterpillars and chinch bugs. Rotate combination products to reduce resistant populations and spot treat when possible.

Adult mole crickets are about 1 1/2 inches long, light brown, and have enlarged forelegs that they use to dig in soil. They feed at night during warm weather, after rain or irrigation. They also fly for 1-2 hours at dusk so outdoor lighting may attract them to your yard. Mole crickets cause damage by tunneling (dislodging and drying out plants), and by feeding on grass roots and blades. Small mounds of pushed up soil, reduced turf density and patches of bare soil may be seen. A number of cultural, biological and chemical controls are useful in combination against mole crickets, but chemical treatments are best done by mid-June when they are small.

In weedy areas and open fields, Lubber Grasshopper adults may be found from March to November. It may be possible to avoid the use of an insecticide by hand-picking the grasshoppers and mowing vegetation to appropriate heights.

Proper lawn care involves many tasks. A landscape maintenance program is a convenient way to keep up with the needs of your lawn.

Palms – Fertilize palms about every other month during the growing season, so if you didn’t fertilize last month then do so this month. Palms need a high potassium to nitrogen ratio plus added magnesium so an 8-2-12 fertilizer with 4% magnesium works well. Prune out only dead leaves (when they occur).

Persimmon – Fruit drop is common for persimmons and is caused by the tree trying to self-regulate its fruit load or by over-fertilization of nitrogen. For the first two years after transplanting, a persimmon should get 3 applications of fertilizer during the growing season, the third one in September, using 1/2 to 1 pound (1-2 cups) of 10-10-10 with micronutrients per year of age. Consider skipping the September application if the tree is in its third year.

Pomegranate – For a newly planted young tree, use 1/3 to 2/3 cup of a balanced 10-10-10 formula fertilizer this month. Scratch it lightly into the soil at the tree’s root zone, in a circle 1 or 2 feet in diameter, or larger if the tree is older. If the tree is in its second year, use about twice as much fertilizer, and about 3 times as much in the third year and beyond.

Strawberries – Strawberries are best planted in September (through November) in north Florida and grown as an annual because of our summer heat. Outside of Florida, most strawberry plants are grown over several years (perennial) so appropriate guidelines to grow them are difficult to find in the general information base. Plant in mounds or otherwise well-draining soil that is also high in organic matter. Without a soil sample, mix 1-2 pounds per 100 square feet of a balanced ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium 6″ into the soil before planting. At least one-half of the nitrogen in the fertilizer should be in a slow release form. If you prefer growing organic strawberries, blood meal can be used to increase nitrogen, bone meal can be used to increase phosphates and a wood ash mulch can be added for potassium.Too much N causes malformed fruit, excessive vegetative growth and fewer fruits. Excess K leads to smaller and fewer fruits. Boron is a micronutrient that may be deficient in your soil for strawberries.

Remove runners as you notice them start to develop. This will direct more energy to berry production.

Fungal problems may start with wet weather. Most diseases on leaves, flowers, or fruits can be controlled with fungicides for home garden use; make sure the label specifies it can be used on strawberries. Sulfur can control powdery mildew but make sure temperatures are cooler than 80°F before applying sulfur to avoid burning fruit and foliage.

Turmeric – Harvest bright yellow underground rhizomes in fall when the plant goes dormant.Top of Form

What to Do in General:

Start a fall garden – If you haven’t already, now is the time to start your fall vegetable garden. You can refer to our handouts Start a Fall Vegetable Garden CLICK HERE! and Starting Plants from Seeds Indoors CLICK HERE! to get you started. If you’ve had previous crops, you should consider some crop rotation to avoid building pests in your garden. See our handout Planting Guide for North Florida Vegetables CLICK HERE! for family designation of crops so you can avoid planting successive families. The What to Plant section of this calendar lists the appropriate crops to start this month.

Clean out the summer crops that are spent and remove any other debris. Don’t compost anything that looks diseased as the heat may not kill certain diseases and nematodes. Reinforce raised bed structures if needed or clean up the boundaries of your beds. A soil test would be advisable at this point; you can use the Duval County Extension Service (http://soilslab.ifas.ufl.edu/ESTL%20Home.asp). Based on test results, add recommended amounts of fertilizer. Next add organic matter. Compost improves soil and plant growth regardless of the type of soil you’re adding it to. Spread a 3-4 inch layer over the bed and lightly work in. Refer to our handout Start a Fall Vegetable Garden CLICK HERE! to complete planting.

Feed vegetables a slow/continuous release organic fertilizer applied every 3 to 4 weeks (herbs at half strength). In general, even though it’s a little costlier, try to use a slow release fertilizer or fertilizer with at least 30% as a slow release component. These feed plants more consistently and lessen pollution.

Irrigate – Complete watering restrictions and schedules for Duval County can be found at this link: www.sjrwmd.com/wateringrestrictions. Adjust automatic irrigation based on rainfall and apply no more than 1/2 to 3/4″ at a time, to avoid runoff.

During periods of consistent afternoon thundershowers, it may be better to run automatic irrigation systems manually to avoid overwatering, or to use a Shut-off Device that detects rainfall. There are even devices and apps that allow you to control your irrigation from offsite. If you are concerned whether your landscape is receiving enough water, look for these symptoms of drought stress:

• In turf, grass leaf blades folding in half lengthwise.
• In turf, grass taking on a blue-gray tint rather than maintaining a green color.
• In turf, footprints or tire tracks remaining visible on the grass long after they are made.
• In landscape plants, plant wilting may be observed.

When drought stress becomes apparent in 30-50% of the yard, then water should be applied on the next allowed watering day. Always water in the morning.

It’s a good idea to check your sprinkler system for any breaks or misaligned spray heads at least monthly.

Prepare for possible hurricanes – Prune any dead limbs and open up trees to allow for better airflow. Install lightning protection on tall high value trees. Have a plan to remove and store, or tie down, garden art, pots, hanging baskets, bird feeders, grills and other yard structures. If a hurricane is imminent, remove debris from storm drains to ensure a clear path for storm water. Clean out gutters and downspouts. Remove coconuts and large palm seeds that could release in the storm and cause serious damage. Turn automatic sprinkler systems off. Do not empty your pool; protect your pump and pool equipment.

When planning your landscape, avoid planting fast growing trees that have brittle wood. Wind resistant trees for North Florida include Live Oak, Sand Live Oak, Dogwood, Dahoon Holly, Yaupon Holly, Inkberry, American Holly, Crape Myrtle, Southern Magnolia, Podocarpus and Cabbage Palm. Most palms in general, except Queen Palm and Washington Palm, are more resistant than broad-leaved and conifer trees.

Harvest – Fig trees should be fruiting now. Persimmons, satsuma tangerines and dwarf navel oranges should be in season or will be soon, along with the usual everbearing limes, lemons and limequats. Nantahala raspberries may be fruiting now. Also expect to find pomegranates and pecans. And of course, continue to harvest any vegetables if you haven’t switched to a cool season garden yet.

Divide – Multi-stemmed clumping perennials or bulbs may need to be divided if they haven’t been rejuvenated in 5 or 6 years. Amaryllis are best dug and divided in fall after blooming and leaves have started to yellow and die back. Most varieties of daylilies should be divided in September once they have finished blooming so they’ll have a long season to establish new roots. Agapanthus can also be divided in early fall after flowering if they need it. Offsets from yucca and agave plants can be removed from the original plant at any time, although well-rooted and larger offsets result in faster establishment.

Take Cuttings – You may want to take stem cuttings from cold sensitive plants in your garden to be able to plant them again next year. This method works for most of these plants: take 4-6″ pieces of stem from branch tips, removing at least an inch of the lower leaves. The cut end can be dipped in a root stimulator powder and placed ½ to 1″ into moist potting soil in small pots. Keep moist but not soggy, and in the shade until needing to move them to a bright indoor location.

The post September Newsletter appeared first on Rockaway Sustainable Landscaping - Jacksonville FL.

• What To Plant
• What To Do

The heat and humidity are still with us, but it’s been a much drier summer so far on the beach. Without the normal afternoon thunderstorms in July, it has been more difficult to keep our landscapes sufficiently watered. By the end of July, some rain activity finally brought some relief. Moving into August, having both drought tolerant plants and a design which can handle excess rains may be equally important. Here are some suggestions of plants, garden tasks and ways to enjoy your yard this time of year.

CLICK HERE FOR CONSULTATION FORM!

What to Plant

Many of the same plants that were standouts last month can still be cultivated in August. Here are suggestions of plants that are particularly useful in late summer.

Annuals (Or Grown As Annuals): The heat is beginning to take its toll on many of the annuals. Still reliable for August are African daisy (Osteospermum), angelonia, caladium, celosia, coleus (Plectranthus), crossandra, diamond frost (Euphorbia), gold dust (Mecardonia), gomphrena, melampodium, ornamental pepper (Capsicum), pentas, portulaca and purslane (Portulaca), sunpatiens (Impatiens), torenia, vinca (Catharanthus), and zinnia.

Perennials: Some perennials which can be planted in August heat include agapanthus, baby sunrose (Aptenia), beach (dune) sunflower (Helianthus), blanket flower (Gaillardia), bulbine, bush daisy (Euryops), canna lily, cat whiskers (Orthosiphon), cigar plant and Mexican Heather (and other Cupheas), coneflower (Echinacea), crinum and many other lily types, firecracker plant (Russelia), gaura, hibiscus, jacobinia (Justicia), lantana, Mexican petunia (Ruellia), milkweed (asclepias), plumbago, powderpuff (Mimosa), salvia, shrimp plant (Justicia), tickseed (Coreopsis), Turk’s Cap (Malvaviscus) and yarrow (Achillea). You can install groundcovers and border plants like African iris (Dietes), Asiatic jasmine (Trachelospermum), autumn fern (Dryopteris), Aztec grass (Liriopogon), blueberry flax (Dianella), daylily (Hemerocallis), foxtail fern (Asparagus), holly fern (Cyrtomium), liriope, mondo grass, Persian shield (Strobilanthes), purple queen (Tradescantia), Regina iris (Neomarica), and society garlic (Tulbaghia). Ornamental grasses include fakahatchee (Tripsacum), fountain grass (Pennisetum), muhly grass (Muhlenbergia), pampas grass (Cortaderia) and sea oats (Uniola).

Tropicals: These are one of the few groups of plants that appreciate our summer heat, and many should be flowering at this time.Some of the great tropicals we grow here seasonally or with occasional protection are allamanda, bird of paradise (Strelitzia), bougainvillea, copperleaf (Acalypha), croton (Codiaeum), dipladenia (Mandevilla), elephant ear (Alocasia and Colocasia), heliconia, hibiscus, mandevilla, oyster plant (Tradescantia), papyrus (Cyperus), schefflera, snowbush (Breynia), spathe plant (Spathiphyllum), stromanthe, variegated shell ginger (Alpinia), tapioca plant (Manihot) and Ti plant (Cordyline). For ideas on including tropicals in your landscape and suggestions for plants, see our handout called Tropic Life. CLICK HERE!

Succulents: Most succulents thrive in heat. We have a large area full of cacti and succulents, including some beautiful Crown of Thorns (Euphorbia).

CLICK HERE FOR CARE GUIDES!

Vines: Vines which can be planted this month include black-eyed susan vine (Thunbergia), bleeding heart vine (Clerodendrum), blue sky vine (Thunbergia), bower vine (Pandorea), butterfly vine (Mascagnia), Carolina jessamine (Gelsemium), confederate jasmine (Trachelospermum), coral honeysuckle (Lonicera), crossvine (Bignonia), dutchman’s pipe (Aristolochia), English ivy (Hedera), hyacinth bean (Lablab), Mexican flame vine (Senecio), moonflower (Ipomoea), morning glory (Ipomoea), passion vine (Passiflora) and sweet potato vine (Ipomoea).

Palms, Shrubs and Trees: Even with the heat, August can be a good time to plant palms, shrubs and trees as long as we get frequent rains. Palms include cabbage, cardboard, Chinese fan, Christmas, coontie (not a true palm), European fan, lady, needle, palmettos, pindo, ponytail, pygmy date, sago, queen, Washington, and windmill.

Shrubs and trees that can usually be found at this time are abelia, arborvitae (Thuja), aucuba, azaleas (Rhododendron), bamboos (Bambusa), bananas (Musa), blue porterweed (Stachytarpheta), bottlebrush (Callistemon), boxwood (Buxus), camellia, cassia (Senna), clusia, crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia), cypress (Cupressus), duranta, Eugenia (Syzygium), fatsia, firebush (Hamelia), gardenia, hollies (Ilex), hydrangea, Indian hawthorn (Rhaphiolepis), junipers (Juniperus), ligustrum, loropetalum, oleander (Nerium), pineapple guava (Acca), pinwheel jasmine (Tabernaemontana), pittosporum, podocarpus, princess flower (Tibouchina), pyracantha, rose (Rosa), Rose of Sharon (Hibiscus), Texas sage (Leucophyllum), thryallis (Galphimia), viburnum and yesterday-today-tomorrow (Brunfelsia). Don’t forget edibles – blackberries, blueberries, citrus, culinary ginger, figs, goji berry, grapes, papayas, pineapples, pomegranates, raspberries, and turmeric. We carry blackberries and raspberries with low chilling-hour requirements to grow in our mild climate, and a grape that can take the heat.

Vegetables and Herbs: Except for sweet potatoes, pumpkins, okra, Malabar spinach and southern peas, few vegetables are growing in the garden now. With warm weather crops waning, this is a good month to start planning for your fall garden (see What to Do). Once the garden is renovated these seeds can be sown: bush, lima and pole beans, summer and winter squash, and cucumber. Later in August, especially if the temperatures start to drop, add seeds of turnip, carrot, and celery, and onion sets. These are all plants which do better when grown from seed sown directly into the garden. You can also start seeds either in ground or starter pots of tomatoes, eggplants and peppers, and cool season crops like beets, broccoli, brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, Chinese cabbage, endive, kale, collards and mustard (take a little extra care if transplanting mustards instead of direct sowing). This is probably the last month of the year to start Malabar spinach. See our handout Planting Guide for North Florida Vegetables, for vegetable growing information. CLICK HERE!

The article at the end of this newsletter will help you decide which tomatoes to grow.

Many herbs don’t grow well after late spring, but these can stand up to the summer heat: African blue basil, basil, bay laurel, chives, Cuban oregano, cilantro, lavender, lemon balm, lemon grass, lemon verbena, Mexican tarragon, mint, oregano/marjoram, purslane, roselle, rosemary, and stevia. Fennel seeds can be started this month. Herbs needing a cooler setting can be moved to a shadier area if they are potted. Low-growing herbs may be more susceptible to the fungal problems associated with humidity. It may help to thin the base of Rosemary. For mints that grow large and choke themselves out in a container, smaller portions of the root and stem can be transplanted to another pot. See our handout Planting Guide for North Florida Culinary Herbs for additional growing information. CLICK HERE! Also see Herbs for North Florida, for some specific variety and usage information for many of the herbs we carry. CLICK HERE!

Plants that can also be grown indoors: “Houseplants” don’t have to be kept inside your house! Growing conditions for much of the year here support these transitional plants outdoors where more favorable conditions of fresh, humid air and brighter light may help them fight off potential pests and disease. Outdoor beneficial insects may also contribute to their well-being. If you put them outdoors, introduce them gradually to the increased light, avoiding direct sunlight for most. These include aglaonema, air plants, anthuriums, arboicola, bromeliads, dieffenbachia, dracaena, ferns, hoya, palms, philodendrons, pitcher plants, polka dot plants (Hypoestes), pothos, rubber plants (Ficus), snake plants, spathe plants, spider plants, succulents, ti plants (cordyline), zz plants and more.

What to Do

Start a Fall Garden: August is the time to at least be planning your fall vegetable garden. You can refer to our handouts Start a Fall Vegetable Garden CLICK HERE! and Starting Plants from Seeds Indoors CLICK HERE! to get you started. If you’ve had previous crops, you should consider some crop rotation to avoid building pests in your garden. See our handout Planting Guide for North Florida Vegetables CLICK HERE! for family designation of crops so you can avoid planting successive families. The What to Plant section of this newsletter lists the appropriate crops to start this month.

Clean out the summer crops that are spent and remove any other debris. Don’t compost anything that looks diseased as the heat may not kill certain diseases and nematodes. Reinforce raised bed structures if needed or clean up the boundaries of your beds. A soil test would be advisable at this point, either by using the Duval County Extension Service or you might try a home soil test kit. The LaMotte Garden Kit is the only one tested by an independent laboratory that is sufficiently accurate. Based on the test, add recommended amounts of fertilizer. Next add organic matter. Compost improves soil and plant growth regardless of the type of soil you’re adding it to. Spread a 3-4 inch layer over the bed and lightly work in. Refer to Start a Fall Vegetable Garden to complete planting.CLICK HERE!

Irrigate: Complete watering restrictions and schedules for Duval County can be found at this link: www.sjrwmd.com/wateringrestrictions. Adjust automatic irrigation based on rainfall and apply no more than 1/2 to 3/4″ at a time, to avoid runoff. To determine how long it takes to deliver the correct amount of water to your landscape, you can use the ‘can method’ suggested by the University of Florida (http://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/care/irrigation/calibrating-your-irrigation-system.html). Alternatively, Rockaway, Inc.’s Maintenance Service Division can check the operation and delivery for you.

When afternoon thundershowers begin this time of year, it may be better to run automatic irrigation systems manually to avoid over-watering, or to use a Shut-off Device that detects rainfall. There are even devices and apps that allow you to control your irrigation from offsite. If you are concerned whether your landscape is receiving enough water, look for these symptoms of drought stress:

• Grass leaf blades folding in half lengthwise.
• Grass taking on a blue-gray tint rather than maintaining a green color.
• Footprints or tire tracks remaining visible on the grass long after they are made.
• Plant wilting may be observed on landscape plants.

When drought stress becomes apparent in 30-50% of the yard, then water should be applied on the next allowed watering day. Always water in the morning.
It’s a good idea to check your sprinkler system for any breaks or misaligned spray heads at least monthly.

Mow: At the highest summer temperatures, grass growth slows. Never remove more than 1/3 of the leaf blade at a time and mow to the highest recommended height to support root growth. Here are the recommended mowing heights for several N. Florida grasses: Bahia grass at 3-4 “, Zoysiagrass coarse textured varieties at 2 to 2½” and fine textured at 1″, Centipedegrass at 1½ to 2½”, Seashore Paspalum at 1½ to 2″, and St. Augustinegrass at 2½” for dwarf and semi-dwarf cultivars such as Delmar, Seville and Captiva, and 3.5 to 4″ for standard St. Augustinegrass, especially if growing in shade. To maintain at a height of 4″, grass should be mowed before it grows to a height above 6″. Sharpen mower blades frequently, even monthly, to avoid damage to the grass which allows disease to enter. Avoid mowing when grass is wet.

Prepare for possible hurricanes: Prune any dead limbs and open up trees to allow for better airflow. Install lightning protection on tall high value trees. Avoid planting fast growing trees that have brittle wood. Wind resistant trees for North Florida include Live Oak, Sand Live Oak, Dogwood, Dahoon Holly, Yaupon Holly, Inkberry, American Holly, Crape Myrtle, Southern Magnolia, Podocarpus and Cabbage Palm. Most palms in general, except Queen Palm and Washington Palm, are more resistant than broad-leaved and conifer trees.

Prune: For annuals and perennials, general deadheading is helpful any time of year. Remove spent flowers on hydrangea, salvia and society garlic. Pinch back Chrysanthemums by the end of August to allow time for buds to form for winter bloom. It’s too late to prune spring flowering shrubs such as azaleas. To do so would remove next year’s flower buds which have already begun forming. On palms, only remove fully browned leaves as the plant will resorb needed nutrients from leaves as they die. Also, if you imagine the palm vegetation as a clock face, don’t prune leaves above 3 and 9 o’clock. After harvest, prune mature blueberry plants (those at least 4-6′ tall). Cut back 1/4 to 1/5 of the older canes to a strong lateral or to the ground to stimulate new growth. If your Drift or Knockout roses missed an early summer pruning, then it’s probably time. See our Drift and Knockout Rose Care Guides. CLICK HERE!

Divide: Divide and transplant spring flowering bulbs in August.

Harvest: Some varieties of blueberry should be fruiting now, as should some figs. Although few citrus are probably producing at this time, there may be some lemons and limes to harvest. And of course, continue to harvest any vegetables to keep them productive, but don’t hesitate to remove any in decline. Most herbs benefit from regular trimming of leaves.

Mulch: Replace deteriorating mulch with a new 2-3″ layer to moderate soil temperatures, retain soil moisture, and reduce erosion and weeds. Organic matter is added to the soil as mulch decomposes. Mulch also creates an attractive unified look to highlight your plantings. Florida’s warm and often wet weather can lead to rapid breakdown of mulch. We can help you determine how much mulch you need for a specific area.

Solarize the soil: If you want to give your garden a rest this time of year, this is a good time to use a cover of clear plastic over garden soil as a non-chemical method to control soil-borne pests such as nematodes, insects, weeds, and pathogens. The plastic raises the temperature of the soil and speeds the breakdown of organic material so more soluble nutrients are available. The soil temperature should rise above 105°in sunny areas. Dig a trench around the area to be solarized, wet the soil to 12″ deep, cover the area with 1-4 mil clear plastic and fill in the trenches over the plastic so there is a tight seal over the soil. Keep this down for 6-8 weeks, repairing any tears that might occur. When the process is finished, disturb the soil as little as possible so weed seeds which were deep below the surface aren’t brought up.

Fertilize: The recommendation for low maintenance lawns is to receive 2 fertilizations yearly with the second coming next month in September. However, specific direction depends on the species of turf, it’s current nutrition and fertility of the soil. An annual soil test can prevent over and under-fertilization of lawns, both of which can be harmful. A landscape maintenance program is a convenient way to keep up with the needs of your lawn.

Fruiting shrubs and trees generally need more fertilizer during the year than other shrubs and trees. Recommendations for fruit tree products and frequency depends on the type of tree, but a peach/pecan or citrus formula can be used for most following harvest. Citrus are heavy feeders and need several applications of fertilizer during the growing season, from March to early October, so it’s likely time to fertilize them. See our handout Citrus Care Guide for more information. CLICK HERE! Fertilize blueberries lightly every other month. Figs and bananas should be fertilized monthly.

Fertilize palms about every other month during the growing season. Palms need a high potassium to nitrogen ratio plus added magnesium so an 8-2-12 fertilizer with 4% magnesium works well. Azaleas could use an application of a slow release acid fertilizer.

Discontinue or minimize fertilizing if herbs and vegetables go into obvious decline with the heat. Otherwise, feed vegetables a slow/continuous release organic fertilizer applied every 3 to 4 weeks (herbs at half strength). In general, even though it’s a little costlier, try to use a slow release fertilizer or fertilizer with at least 30% as a slow release component. These feed plants more consistently and lessen pollution.

Control Weeds: Proper maintenance of turf (mowing, irrigation, fertilization) is the best way to control and prevent weeds. Unless weeds are extensive, non-herbicidal methods of weed control should be considered first, and now that the weather has heated up its even more important to know your limits with chemical options. Post-emergent herbicides shouldn’t be used on lawns if summer air temperatures are greater than 90° since this could damage the turf. Post-emergent herbicides are also less effective if the weed is mature, producing seed, under drought stress, or if mowed within several days of herbicide application. Maintaining proper mowing height and frequency can eliminate many annual weeds in lawns. Alternative methods may be needed for weeds which establish and flower below the recommended height of the grass. If weeds aren’t extensive, its simpler to manually pull them. In beds and paths and where turf isn’t grown, a deep layer of mulch can smother weeds. In nonflammable areas such as sidewalk cracks, weeds can be torched.

If herbicides are required, Fertilome Weed Free Zone is a post-emergent herbicide for broad leaf weeds useful in 45-90°F temperatures. Fertilome Selective is useful for spot treatment in temperatures between 50-85°. To control nut-sedge and dollar weed, make sure you’re not creating favorable conditions by over-watering your lawn. Always choose an herbicide that lists your lawn type on the label and follow instructions carefully as they can vary.

Monitor and Control Disease: Continue to monitor disease on lawns and gardens. Fungal disease can occur almost any time of year, especially if the landscape is over watered or watered at the wrong time of day. Bonide Infuse Systemic Disease Control can prevent and control fungal growth.

In lawns, watch for discolored, irregular yellowing and thinning patches which may be a sign of disease. Take-all root rot is a fungal disease of lawns, occurring in St. Augustinegrass and bermudagrass, and often showing in spring or early summer when the turf is emerging from dormancy. A stressed lawn or prolonged periods of rain can also bring on the disease. Control is extremely difficult, so prevention is best. Fungicides need to be applied early, generally from June to August, so planning for next year is especially important if you have issues with this disease. Preventive applications of select fungicides can be applied generally from June – August. The University of Florida recommends that homeowners employ a lawn and landscape service for fungicide applications. Those determined to make their own applications should exercise caution and make informed decisions. Turfgrass decline can be difficult to diagnose but a maintenance program with Rockaway is a first step to controlling and identifying these problems.

Monitor and Control Insects: Frequently scout houseplants, the vegetable garden and landscape plantings for insects as they are easier to control when first noticed. Pest pressure may be high for fall crops.

• Thrips, scale, and mites become more active in warm weather. Check for thrips on leaves and flowers of roses, hibiscus and gardenias. Spinosad is particularly effective on thrips and caterpillars (also leafminers, spider mites, mosquitoes, ants and fruit flies) and lasts up to 4 weeks. Additionally, it is safe for people, beneficial insects and adult butterflies, and safe for bees once it has dried.
• Inspect annuals, pyracantha and junipers for spider mite damage. These almost invisible pests live on the underside of leaves, sucking out their juice, and sometimes create webbing across the leaves. Spray with horticultural oil or use insecticidal soap in several applications.
• The native mealy bug can be a problem on fakahatchee and muhly grass. These 2-3 mm gray insects have a white cottony covering and drink sap by piercing stems and leaves. Its best to remove plants with a heavy infestation, or cut them back and apply a horticultural oil spray to the remainder.
• Aphids feed on tender new growth. They can sometimes be controlled with sprays of water or by picking them up with a vacuum or sticky tape. Insecticidal soaps can be used but these will also harm Monarch butterflies and their young, so typically not used on Butterfly Weed/Asclepias.
• Cabbage palm caterpillars may appear in late July. To control, apply Dipel or Sevin to palms.
• Fire Ants may be a problem this time of year. Baits are available for treatment.
• Neem oil is a good combination product that can be used to combat insects, mites and fungus.
• Soft-bodied insect pests can be controlled by beneficial insects such as ladybug beetles and lacewing. To maximize the effectiveness of these natural enemies, provide habitat and relief from high temperatures by increasing the amount and diversity of plants in your landscape. Refer to our handout Ladybugs, for storage and release information. CLICK HERE!

The major lawn pests active this time of year are Southern Chinch Bug and Fall Armyworm, and possibly to a lesser extent Tropical Sod Webworm.

Chinch bugs prefer hot, dry conditions. They suck the juices from St. Augustinegrass at or just below the soil level. Yellowish to burnt-brownish patches are often first noticed in sunny areas along sidewalks and driveways, or in poorly irrigated areas. Young chinch bugs will be reddish with a white band across their back. They become black as they mature, with white patches on their wings. To help control the problem, limit nitrogen fertilizer and reduce thatch thickness to minimize the bug’s habitat.

Newly hatched larvae of tropical sod webworm skeletonize grass blades while older larvae chew on grass blades near soil surface. Small patches of grass may look ragged and irregular. The adult moth does not cause damage but the life cycle from egg to adult only requires 5-6 weeks at 78°F.

Fall armyworm caterpillars skeletonize grass blades then later create bare spots.

Younger caterpillars of both armyworm and webworm are more easily controlled with reduced-risk products like B.t., halofenozide and spinosad. Bifenthrin also targets both these caterpillars and Chinch bugs. You can use a product like Hi Yield Bug Blaster Plus Above/Below. Rotate combination products to reduce resistant populations and spot treat when possible.

In weedy areas and open fields, Lubber Grasshopper adults may be found from March to November. It may be possible to avoid the use of an insecticide by hand-picking the grasshoppers and mowing vegetation to appropriate heights.

Be aware of areas that collect water so you can minimize breeding sites for mosquitoes. Dump and flush manageable containers at least weekly. Flush clogged gutters. Use dunks containing Bt to control larval development.

Many insect problems require a combination of pest management products and techniques. But keep in mind that for any problem, it may occasionally be less costly and more environmentally friendly to replace infected plants with another species that would be more appropriate for the site. Don’t be reluctant to remove a plant that just isn’t working.

The post August Newsletter appeared first on Rockaway Sustainable Landscaping - Jacksonville FL.

• What To Plant
• What To Do
• Plant Focus: Carolina Sapphire Cypress and UpTick Coreopsis
• Growing Sweet Potatoes on the Beach
• Preventing Disease in your Landscape

July in the South – parties and outdoor life are normal but now we have extreme heat too! This is when we often have to try a little harder to make our outdoor spaces shine, and heat tolerant plants become an important part of our gardening. Finding plants that will bridge the gap between the cool-loving spring annuals and perennials, and those that will begin thriving again in the fall is a challenging but rewarding search. Here are some tips for what to plant and how to keep your landscape in top condition.

CLICK HERE FOR CONSULTATION FORM!

What to Plant

The following plants are heat tolerant plants you can cultivate this time of year:

Annuals (Or Grown As Annuals): If supertunias, petunias and alyssum are planted so they receive afternoon shade or in moveable containers, then these can often be babied through the hot season until they can proliferate again in the fall. If pruned after blooming you can get another flush of blooms. More reliable for July are African daisy (Osteospermum), ajuga, angelonia, calibrachoa, caladium, celosia, coleus, coneflower, diamond frost (Euphorbia), gazania, geranium (Pelargonium), gerbera daisy, gold dust (Mecardonia), gomphrena, licorice plant, lobelia, melampodium, nemesia, pentas, portulaca and purslane, sunpatiens, sweet potato vine (Ipomoea), torenia, variegated shell ginger (Alpinia), vinca (Catharanthus), and zinnia.

Perennials: Most perennial types can be planted now. Many perennials have very long bloom times and are luckily also good plants for pollinators. These include agastache, beach (dune) sunflower, buddleia, bulbine, bush daisy, canna lily, cat whiskers (Orthosiphon), cigar plant and Mexican Heather (and other Cupheas), firecracker grass (Russelia), firespike (Odontonema), gaura, gerbera daisy, hibiscus, lantana, Mexican petunia (Ruellia), plumbago, porterweed, salvia, shasta daisy, shrimp plant (Justicia), and yarrow. Native plants like black-eyed susan (Rudbeckia), blanket flower (Gaillardia), cone flower, milkweed (Asclepias), powderpuff (Mimosa), stokes aster and tickseed (Coreopsis) are good choices for a more natural landscape. You can install groundcovers and border plants like African and Regina iris, Asiatic jasmine, autumn fern, Aztec grass, blueberry flax (Dianella), daylily, foxtail fern, holly fern, liriope, mondo grass, purple queen (Tradescantia) and society garlic. Also, many bulbs can be planted at this time, particularly agapanthus, caladium, canna, and crinum. Ornamental grasses include fakahatchee, fountain grass, muhly grass, pampas grass and sea oats.

Tropicals: These are one of the few groups of plants that appreciate our summer heat; you can continue to plant tropical vines, ground covers, shrubs and small trees. Some of the great tropicals we grow here seasonally or with occasional protection are bird of paradise, bougainvillea, copperleaf (Acalypha), cordyline, croton, elephant ear (Alocasia and Colocasia), heliconia, ixora, mandevilla, papyrus, schefflera, snowbush, stromanthe, and variegated shell ginger. For ideas on including tropicals in your landscape and suggestions for plants, see our handout called Tropic Life. CLICK HERE!

Succulents: Most succulents thrive in heat. We have a large area full of cacti and succulents.

CLICK HERE FOR CARE GUIDES!

Vines: Vines which can be planted this month include black-eyed susan vine, bleeding heart vine (Clerodendrum), blue sky vine, bower vine, butterfly vine (Mascagnia), Carolina jessamine, confederate jasmine, coral honeysuckle, crossvine, dutchman’s pipe, English ivy, hyacinth bean, Mexican flame vine, moonflower, morning glory, and passion vine.

Palms, Shrubs and Trees: Even with the heat, July can be a good time to plant palms, shrubs and trees because of the frequent rains. Palms include cabbage, cardboard, Chinese fan, Christmas, coontie (not a true palm), European fan, lady, needle, palmettos, pindo, ponytail, pygmy date, sago, queen, Washington, and windmill.

Shrubs and trees that can usually be found at this time are abelia, arborvitae, azaleas, bamboos, banana shrub, bananas, bottlebrush, boxwood, buddleia, camellia, clusia, crape myrtle, cypress, duranta, eugenia, fatsia, firebush (Hamelia), gardenia, hollies, hydrangea, Indian hawthorn, Japanese blueberry, junipers, ligustrum, loropetalum, mimosa, nandina, oleander, pineapple guava, pinwheel jasmine, pittosporum, podocarpus, princess flower (Tibouchina), pyracantha, roses, Texas sage (Leucophyllum), thryallis, viburnum and yesterday-today-tomorrow. If you don’t find what you’re looking for, we may be able to locate it for you. Don’t forget edibles – blackberries, blueberries, citrus, culinary ginger, figs, goji berry, grapes, papayas, pineapples, pomegranates, raspberries, and turmeric. We carry blackberries and raspberries with low chilling-hour requirements to grow in our mild climate, and a grape that can take the heat.

Vegetables and Herbs: We are in that midsummer lull when few vegetables grow. The best vegetables for the heat are okra, eggplant, hot peppers, lima beans, Southern peas, watermelon and sweet potatoes, but for the most part they should already be growing. Malabar spinach can still be planted, and this is the last month to plant Southern peas and okra. Except for some of the cherry types, tomatoes are giving up by now. You can start seeds, though, for a second round of tomatoes, cucumbers and peppers. Also start your seeds for pumpkin time! See our handout Planting Guide for North Florida Vegetables, for vegetable growing information. CLICK HERE!

Many herbs don’t grow well after late spring, but these can stand up to the summer heat: African blue basil, basil, bay laurel, chives, Cuban oregano, cilantro, lavender, lemon balm, lemon grass, lemon verbena, Mexican tarragon, mint, oregano/marjoram, purslane, roselle, rosemary, and stevia. Herbs needing a cooler setting can be moved to a shadier area if they are potted. Low-growing herbs may be more susceptible to the fungal problems associated with humidity. It may help to thin the base of Rosemary. For mints that grow large and choke themselves out in a container, smaller portions of the root and stem can be transplanted to another pot. See our handout Planting Guide for North Florida Culinary Herbs for additional growing information. Also see Herbs for North Florida, for some specific variety and usage information. CLICK HERE!

Plants that can also be grown indoors: “Houseplants” don’t have to be kept inside your house! Growing conditions for much of the year here support these transitional plants outdoors where more favorable conditions of fresh, humid air and brighter light may help them fight off potential pests and disease. Outdoor beneficial insects may also contribute to their well-being. If you put them outdoors, introduce them gradually to the increased light, avoiding direct sunlight for most. Indoor plants include African violets, air plants, anthuriums, bromeliads, calathea, dieffenbachia, dracaena, ferns, ficus, hoya, Norfolk Island pine, orchids, palms, philodendrons, polka dot plants, pothos, snake plants, spathe plants, spider plants, succulents, venus flytraps, zz plants and more.

Plant Focus

Carolina Sapphire Cypress

This is a great choice for the south. Carolina Sapphire was developed by Clemson University from the species Arizona Cypress, which is the only cypress native to the U.S. It manages our heat well and prefers good drainage so it grows well in sandy soils. It is faster growing than Leyland or Blue Ice Cypresses. Although often used as a screen, it’s lacey silvery blue/teal coloration makes it pretty enough to be a specimen tree. It also produces attractive, small, rounded, mahogany cones. During the holidays, its aromatic branches can decorate your home with festive greenery.

UpTick Coreopsis

Any coreopsis is a worthwhile addition to a perennial garden, but this series is particularly useful with its tidy mounding habit, good mildew resistance and exceptionally large flowers that bloom longer than the species. Available colors in the series are Yellow and Red (pictured), Gold and Bronze, Cream and Red and Cream (Cream has a slight yellow center). Coreopsis is the official state flower of Florida, granted this distinction for populating roadside plantings so well. Important for pollinators, it is also low maintenance and disease resistant.

What to Do

Irrigate: Complete watering restrictions and schedules for Duval County can be found at this link: www.sjrwmd.com/wateringrestrictions. Adjust automatic irrigation based on rainfall and apply no more than 1/2 to 3/4″ at a time, to avoid runoff. When afternoon thundershowers begin this time of year, it may be better to run automatic irrigation systems manually to avoid over-watering, or to use a Shut-off Device that detects rainfall. There are even devices and apps that allow you to control your irrigation from offsite. If you are concerned whether your landscape is receiving enough water, look for these symptoms of drought stress:

• Grass leaf blades folding in half lengthwise.
• Grass taking on a blue-gray tint rather than maintaining a green color.
• Footprints or tire tracks remaining visible on the grass long after they are made.
• Plant wilting may be observed on landscape plants.

When drought stress becomes apparent in 30-50% of the yard, then water should be applied on the next allowed watering day.
It’s a good idea to check your sprinkler system for any breaks or misaligned spray heads at least monthly.

Mow: At the highest summer temperatures, grass growth slows. Never remove more than 1/3 of the leaf blade at a time and mow to the highest recommended height to support root growth. Here are the recommended mowing heights for several N. Florida grasses: Bahia grass at 3-4 “, Zoysiagrass coarse textured varieties at 2 to 2½” and fine textured at 1″, Centipedegrass at 1½ to 2½”, Seashore Paspalum at 1½ to 2″, and St. Augustinegrass at 2½” for dwarf and semi-dwarf cultivars such as Delmar, Seville and Captiva, and 3.5 to 4″ for standard St. Augustinegrass, especially if growing in shade. To maintain at a height of 4″, grass should be mowed before it grows to a height above 6″. Sharpen mower blades frequently, even monthly. Avoid mowing when grass is wet.

Prune: With hurricane season coming, this is a good time to prune any dead limbs and open up trees to allow better airflow. General deadheading is helpful any time of year. Don’t prune Azaleas any later than mid-July to avoid removing next year’s blossoms. If your Drift or Knockout roses missed an early summer pruning, then it’s probably time. See our Drift and Knockout Rose Care Guides. CLICK HERE!

Harvest: Although few citrus are probably producing at this time, there may be some lemons and limes to harvest. Some berry types will ripen this month. And of course, continue to harvest any vegetables. Most herbs benefit from regular trimming of leaves.

Mulch: Replace deteriorating mulch with a new 2-3″ layer to moderate soil temperatures, retain soil moisture, and reduce erosion and weeds. Organic matter is added to the soil as mulch decomposes. Mulch also creates an attractive unified look to highlight your plantings. Florida’s warm and often wet weather can lead to rapid breakdown of mulch. We can help you determine how much mulch you need for a specific area.

Solarize the soil: This is a good time to use a cover of clear plastic over garden soil as a nonchemical method to control soil borne pests such as nematodes, insects, weeds, and pathogens by raising the temperature of the soil. It also speeds the breakdown of organic material so more soluble nutrients are in the soil. Dig a trench around the area to be solarized, wet the soil to 12″ deep, cover the area with 1-4 mil clear plastic and fill in the trenches over the plastic so there is a tight seal over the soil. Keep this down for 6-8 weeks, repairing any tears that might occur. When the process is finished, disturb the soil as little as possible so weed seeds which were deep below the surface aren’t brought up.

Fertilize: Lawn fertilization isn’t recommended at this time, but other plantings may benefit from fertilizer in July. Select a fertilizer with at least one third of its nitrogen as a slow release (non-water-soluble) form. GreenEdge is a superior, environmentally sound, slow release fertilizer with organic nitrogen in a 16-0-8 plus 1% Mg formula for your garden.

Fruiting shrubs and trees generally need more fertilizer during the year than other shrubs and trees. Recommendations for fruit tree products and frequency depends on the type of tree. Fertilize blueberries lightly every other month. Figs and bananas should be fertilized monthly. Citrus should be fertilized 3 or 4 times during the growing season, starting in March (more often for younger trees), so it’s likely you should fertilize them this month. See our handout Citrus Care Guide for more information. CLICK HERE!

If you pruned your knockout and drift roses this month it’s also a good time to fertilize them with a slow release fertilizer. Liquid fertilizers can be applied every month. See our Drift and Knockout Rose Care Guides. CLICK HERE!

Fertilize palms about every other month during the growing season. Palms need a high potassium to nitrogen ratio plus added magnesium so an 8-2-12 fertilizer with 4% magnesium works well.

Discontinue or minimize fertilizing if herbs and vegetables go into obvious decline with the heat. Otherwise, feed vegetables a slow/continuous release organic fertilizer applied every 3 to 4 weeks (herbs at half strength). In general, even though it’s a little costlier, try to use a slow release fertilizer or fertilizer with at least 30% as a slow release component. These feed plants more consistently and lessen pollution.

Control Weeds: Unless weeds are extensive, non-herbicidal methods of weed control should be considered first, and now that the weather has heated up its even more important to know your limits with chemical options. Post-emergent herbicides shouldn’t be used on lawns if summer air temperatures are greater than 90° since this could damage the turf. Post-emergent herbicides are also less effective if the weed is mature, producing seed, under drought stress, or if mowed within several days of herbicide application. Maintaining proper mowing height and frequency can eliminate many annual weeds in lawns. Alternative methods may be needed for weeds which establish and flower below the recommended height of the grass. If weeds aren’t extensive, its simpler to manually pull them. In beds and paths and where turf isn’t grown, a deep layer of mulch can smother weeds. In nonflammable areas such as sidewalk cracks, weeds can be torched.

If herbicides are required, Fertilome Weed Free Zone is a post-emergent herbicide for broad leaf weeds useful in 45-90°F temperatures. Fertilome Selective is useful for spot treatment in temperatures between 50-85°. To control nut-sedge and dollar weed, make sure you’re not creating favorable conditions by over-watering your lawn. Always choose an herbicide that lists your lawn type on the label and follow instructions carefully as they can vary.

Monitor and Control Insects and Disease: Continue to monitor pests and disease on houseplants, lawns and gardens. Fungal disease can occur almost any time of year, especially if the landscape is over watered or watered at the wrong time of day. Bonide Infuse Systemic Disease Control can prevent and control fungal growth.

In lawns, watch for discolored areas, which may be a sign of disease. Take-all root rot is a fungal disease of lawns, occurring in St. Augustinegrass and bermuda grass, and often showing in spring or early summer when the turf is emerging from dormancy. A stressed lawn or prolonged periods of rain can also bring on the disease. Control is best when fungicides are applied early, so planning for next year is especially important. Turf grass decline can be difficult to diagnose but a maintenance program with Rockaway is a first step to controlling and identifying these problems.

Frequently scout the vegetable garden and landscape plantings for insects as they are easier to control when first noticed.

• Thrips, scale, and mites become more active in warm weather. Check for thrips on leaves and flowers of roses, hibiscus and gardenias. Spinosad is particularly effective on thrips and caterpillars (also leafminers, spider mites, mosquitoes, ants and fruit flies) and lasts up to 4 weeks. Additionally, it is safe for people, beneficial insects and adult butterflies, and safe for bees once it has dried.
• Inspect annuals, pyracantha and junipers for spider mite damage. These almost invisible pests live on the underside of leaves, sucking out their juice, and sometimes create webbing across the leaves. Spray with horticultural oil or use insecticidal soap in several applications.
• Aphids feed on tender new growth. They can sometimes be controlled with sprays of water or by picking them up with a vacuum or sticky tape. Insecticidal soaps can be used but these will also harm Monarch butterflies and their young, so typically not used on Butterfly Weed/Asclepias.
• Cabbage palm caterpillars may appear in late July. To control, apply Dipel or Sevin to palms.
• Neem oil is a good combination product that can be used to combat insects, mites and fungus.
• Beneficial insects such as ladybug beetles and lacewing can control soft-bodied insect pests. To maximize the effectiveness of these natural enemies, provide habitat and relief from high temperatures by increasing the amount and diversity of plants in your landscape. Refer to our handout Ladybugs, for storage and release information. CLICK HERE!

The major lawn pests active this time of year are Southern Chinch Bug, Tropical Sod Webworm and Fall Armyworm.

Chinch bugs suck the juices from St. Augustinegrass at or just below the soil level. Injured plants look stunted, yellowed, wilted, or dead. Yellowish to burnt-brownish patches are often first noticed in sunny areas along sidewalks and driveways, or in poorly irrigated areas. Young chinch bugs will be reddish with a white band across their back. They become black as they mature, with white patches on their wings. To help control the problem, limit nitrogen fertilizer and reduce thatch thickness to minimize the bug’s habitat.

Newly hatched larvae of tropical sod webworm skeletonize grass blades while older larvae chew on grass blades near soil surface. Small patches of grass may look ragged and irregular. The adult moth does not cause damage but the life cycle from egg to adult only requires 5-6 weeks at 78°F.

Fall armyworm caterpillars skeletonize grass blades then later create bare spots.

Younger caterpillars of both armyworm and webworm are more easily controlled with reduced-risk products like B.t., halofenozide and spinosad. Bifenthrin also targets both these caterpillars and Chinch bugs. You can use a product like Hi Yield Bug Blaster Plus Above/Below. Rotate combination products to reduce resistant populations and spot treat when possible.

In weedy areas and open fields, Lubber Grasshopper adults may be found from March to November. It may be possible to avoid the use of an insecticide by hand-picking the grasshoppers and mowing vegetation to appropriate heights.

Be aware of areas that collect water so you can minimize breeding sites for mosquitoes.

For any problem, it may occasionally be less costly and more environmentally friendly to replace infected plants with another species that would be more appropriate for the site. Don’t be reluctant to remove a plant that just isn’t working.

Growing Sweet Potatoes (Ipomoea Batatas) on the beach

What could be better than growing a vegetable that you can practically ignore after planting? Sweet potatoes have few pests, require very little care except for irrigation and flourish in north Florida’s hot summers. They also do quite well in sandy poor soils, although they will grow even better when some organic matter is added. One medium, baked sweet potato with skin (2 inches in diameter, 5 inches long, approximately 114 grams) provides over 400 percent of your daily vitamin A requirement, 25 percent of vitamin C, 25 percent of vitamin B6, 12 percent of potassium and 4 grams of fiber. Additionally, it has 2.3 grams of protein, 0 grams of fat, and small amounts of calcium, iron, magnesium, phosphorus, zinc, vitamin E, thiamin, riboflavin, and folate. Sweet potatoes are a great source of beta-carotene, a powerful antioxidant that gives orange fruits and vegetables their vibrant color. All this is packed in just 103 calories. The leaves are also edible and add a mild flavor to greens.

Although traditionally grown in garden beds, sweet potatoes can also be grown in containers, perfect for growing in the home garden in the beaches area. Sweet potatoes are a tropical perennial, but in containers they are best grown as annuals. Yield may not be as high as in-ground, but the biggest difference is the increased need for water in containers. Toward the end of summer when maturing tubers need a significant amount of water, it may be necessary to water 2-3 times daily when temperatures are in the upper 90’s.
But container growing also has several benefits. It makes it possible to grow in a small or urban garden, smaller containers can be moved to maximize their exposure to sun and there is greater protection against slugs than in a standard garden. The concern of nematodes and sweet potato weevils, which can sometimes be a problem in soils which have grown sweet potatoes or other plants in the morning glory (Convolvulaceae) family for consecutive years is greatly lessened. Finally, the soil in raised containers warms up sooner than the ground – important for a crop that needs to start in soil that is between 70 to 80° and has a relatively long time to maturity.

The best varieties for growing in containers are ones that grow more in bush form, such as Puerto Rico (also called Porto Rico) or Vardaman. Puerto Rico produces medium size orange-fleshed potatoes with a taper. Vardaman has gold skin with deep orange flesh, reportedly one of the best tasting, and high yielding.

Varieties that grow somewhat more viney can also be grown. Both Beauregard and Centennial are more running in habit (sometimes referred to as semi-bush) and are probably the 2 most popular sweet potatoes in America. You can leave the foliage growing across your container, or some gardeners train it up a trellis to manage it, but it will have to be tied. Some trimming will not affect the growth of the tubers. In fact, some people don’t even mind sharing some of the vegetation with deer as they have a fondness for it. Beauregard has high yields, reddish purple skin, deep orange flesh and stores well. Beauregard is also resistant to fusarium wilt and cracking. Centennial has copper skin and pale orange flesh, and also stores well. All these sweet potatoes are fast, maturing in about 90 to 110 days, but smaller potatoes (baby bakers) can be harvested within 6 weeks.

To start your crop, sweet potato slips can be purchased from online garden sources, local garden centers or hardware stores, rooted or unrooted. Slips are baby plants which have sprouted from a mature potato. If your slips have been purchased rooted in small containers and their roots have begun encircling the pot, the roots should be cut away so new roots can support better tuber growth.

If you want to grow your own slips, select 1½” diameter sweet potatoes from last fall’s harvest and start six to eight weeks before planting time. Planting time can be as early as 4 weeks after the last frost, as long as the soil has warmed to at least 70°. Soak the sweet potatoes in water for two hours, then place them in a pot half filled with well-draining soil or clean sand. Cover with 2 inches of loose soil. Keep the soil consistently moist in a warm and sunny spot indoors. When you are ready to plant, cut or gently break away your slips from the potato. Slips should be 6 to 10 inches long when removed. Keep them moist while they grow roots. Although tempting, it is not a good idea to use sprouts grown from store-bought sweet potatoes. You won’t know which specific variety you are growing, the potatoes may have been treated to inhibit sprouting and there is much greater chance of disease.

It is generally recommended to plant sweet potato slips from March through June throughout Florida. Sweet potatoes require a minimum soil temperature of 60° although most recommend at least 70-80°, or growth will be slow. Optimum air temperature for growth is 65-95° or even higher. If air temperatures drop below 55°, sweet potato plants can be damaged. Although perennial, they are tropical and will succumb in fall once the weather cools. Yellowing vines signal a dying crop and time for harvest. Vines should be cut immediately if they experience a sudden hard frost since their deterioration can also begin deterioration of the underground potato.

PLANTING: To plant the slips, use a container mix amended with compost and sand so that it is loose and well-draining. A grow bag, whiskey barrel, wood, clay or plastic container with drain holes can be used. A container that holds about 2 cu. ft. of soil (about 15-20 gallons) with a depth of about 18″ works, providing enough root and tuber room, but is harder to manage than a smaller container. For sweet potatoes, its bottom handle is convenient for upending the bucket to gently unload the potatoes at the end of the season.

Fill the container with soil a little higher on one side, leaving about 2″ at the top to allow for expanding tubers. Lay the slips down across the mound with the roots at the lower end of the soil.Cover roots and stems with soil, then water in. Supply about ¾” water weekly while they are young and a little more as they mature. Decrease water during the 2 weeks prior to when you will do your final harvest. Aim to keep your crop moist but not water-logged and don’t water so much that you have a lot of run off which can leach nutrients from the soil. You can use a seedling mulch such as chopped straw.

To reduce cold stress and speed early growth, newly planted sweet potato slips can be protected from cool spring nights by covering with garden fabric, Spanish moss, paper, pine straw or plastic. It may be necessary to weed your container early on, but once the potato plant begins growing it will smother any competition. Fertilizing increases yield but some feel decreases flavor. Tuber and root crops need more potassium than other vegetable crops, so you can supply it by adding some muriate of potash, but you should limit nitrogen.

HARVEST: Individual sweet potatoes that are less than full size can be dug beginning about 6 weeks after planting the slips. Do a final harvest once the temperatures start cooling in fall and leaves begin to yellow, usually about late September or early October. Cut away the vines and dig the tubers or gently flip over the container. Sweet potatoes are easier to dig than regular potatoes because the tubers tend to cluster closer to the stem. As you harvest, treat the tubers carefully because the skin is thin and the flesh bruises easily. For best storage quality, harvest sweet potatoes before the soil temperature drops below 55°.

Image from John Moody featured on The Gardening Channel.

DRY: Immediately after harvest, let the sweet potatoes fully air dry, then shake off excess soil. Don’t keep them in the sun more than an hour and do not wash them.

CURE: Cure in a warm (85°if possible), humid, well-ventilated area out of the sun for 8-10 days after harvesting. This will help heal cuts and bruises, improve storage and develop their sweetness.

STORE: For long term storage, choose firm, bruise-free, well-shaped sweet potatoes with fairly even coloring. Store in a cool (but above 55°), dry, well-ventilated area away from light. Do not refrigerate sweet potatoes unless they are already cooked. Cold temperatures will give sweet potatoes a hard core and affect the flavor. Properly cured sweet potatoes should store for 5 to 12 months unrefrigerated.

Eat sweet potatoes baked, mashed, candied, caramelized, deep-fried, stuffed or boiled!

Preventing Disease in your Landscape

Gardening is meant to create beautiful, peaceful, stimulating, awe inspiring, rewarding, and nourishing places. But sometimes plants get sick and die. Some plant diseases have had tremendous impacts on society, such as the fungal blight which caused the Irish potato famine in 1845. Later, in America, when the chestnut disease blight was started by imported Chinese chestnut trees, over 30 million acres of American chestnut trees died in less than 40 years. Pathogens can plug up plants’ vascular systems, rot their roots so they can’t extract water and nutrients, and turn plant tissue into a dark slimy ooze. Not a pretty picture!

Plant problems and disease can be caused by environmental conditions such as a late frost, nutrient deficiencies and water stress, or by living agents such as fungi, bacteria, viruses, nematodes and parasitic plants. A correct diagnosis of a plant problem is an involved process of observing the plant, its environment and other plants in the area. Identifying symptoms alone may not lead to a diagnosis since completely different factors may cause similar symptoms on the same plant. And bacterial and viral infections are extremely difficult to control in the home garden. The best cure for disease in the garden is prevention!

Know your enemy. Fungi are mostly microscopic organisms that sometimes produce visible fruiting bodies called mushrooms. They are the largest group of plant pathogens and cause the most garden disease. Understanding their biology can help us avoid a lot of infection. Fungi reproduce by spores and the millions they release are carried by the wind and other elements, sometimes landing on leaves. If conditions are right (moisture, temperature), the spores will germinate and penetrate leaf tissue, creating lesions, spots and other symptoms. Infection can come from soil-borne fungi too. Adhering to the following guidelines can lead to a healthier landscape:

• Observe plants frequently as disease can spread quickly. This also gives you a better feel for what is normal for your landscape and may not actually be a cause for concern.
• Plant cultivars that have been developed to resist specific diseases. For tomatoes, look for plants labeled with V,F or T after their names. These refer to resistance to verticillium, fusarium and tobacco mosaic diseases.
• Give plants adequate space. Crowding decreases air flow and keeps foliage from drying.
• Use mulch under your plantings, but not right up to the base of the plant. Mulch may prevent soil from splashing onto leaves and distribute soil-borne fungal disease.
• Avoid overhead irrigation as much as possible and don’t apply water when the vegetation will remain wet for long periods, such as at night. Drip irrigation and soaker hoses direct water to the soil, not the foliage.
• Be careful to follow fertilizer recommendations. Overfertilizing creates succulent growth with an overabundance of nutrients that is attractive to some disease organisms. Slow, steady growth with slow-release nutrients is best.
• Remove and destroy diseased plant tissue. Don’t compost this material as composting may not kill the organism. Pruning shears used to prune the plants should be sterilized with a Lysol solution. It’s a good practice to sterilize shears between every plant, even if you don’t see disease.
• Rotate annual crops and try a different type of landscape plant in a spot where a plant died. Most plant diseases are host-specific so they will attack similar plants or plants in the same family. For herbs and vegetables, refer to our Planting Guide for North Florida Vegetables CLICK HERE! and Planting Guide for North Florida Culinary Herbs CLICK HERE! to see the families of crops. Avoid planting crops of the same family in consecutive years.

Fostering a healthy environment and using time-tested gardening techniques can minimize disease in your landscape.

The post July Newsletter appeared first on Rockaway Sustainable Landscaping - Jacksonville FL.

• What To Plant
• What To Do
• Plant Focus: Pugster Butterfly Bush

Summer is here!

Summer has certainly begun. Not surprisingly, days have been very warm. In past years, the average high temperature in June has been 86.7°, beat out only by July at 89.3°. Rainfall is usually low early in the month but increases by the end so that June is considered part of the rainy summer season. Cloud cover, too, increases from 46% to 58% by the end of the month. The summer solstice, longest day of the year, is on June 21.

As temperatures increase, it becomes more important to give plantings some extra attention. Warmer weather speeds plant growth and increases transpiration, so plants need more water. Information about xeriscaping, at the end of this newsletter, may give you some ideas for handling heat and drought. In any landscape it is important to plant in the relatively cool morning, out of the sun as much as possible. The tiny hairs on some roots can desiccate within seconds so work quickly. Create a lip or moat when planting so water is retained around the root zone. Keep in mind that plants in containers usually require more water than those in the ground.

CLICK HERE FOR CONSULTATION FORM!

What to Plant

Houseplants: Many plants which need indoor protection in winter will get a lift from outdoor summer-time life in North Florida. These transitional plants can be an important part of your outdoor design. Avoid direct sunlight for most, at least while they acclimate a few increasing hours each day to higher light conditions. We currently have a great selection including air plants, hoya, succulents, kalanchoe, bromeliads, African violets, calla lilies, ferns, zz plants, orchids, palms, dracaena, ficus and more.

Annuals (Or Grown As Annuals): If supertunias, petunias and alyssum are planted so they receive afternoon shade or in moveable containers, then these can often be babied through the hot season until they can proliferate again in the fall. If pruned at this time you may often get another flush of blooms. More reliable for May are angelonia, blue daze, caladium, celosia, coleus, gazania, pentas, vinca (Catharanthus), wax begonia, zinnia, helichrysum, verbena, bacopa, marigold (Tagetes), sunpatiens, crossandra, melampodium, portulaca and sweet potato vine. Trailing torenia is particularly useful, with sustained flowering through the summer. It also doesn’t require, and does better without, full sun.

Perennials: Most perennial types can be planted now. Many perennials have very long bloom times, including salvia, beach sunflower, gaura, bush daisy, hibiscus, porterweed, yarrow, plumbago, firecracker grass (Russelia), firespike (Odontonema), bulbine, shrimp plant (Justicia), cigar plant (Cuphea), canna lily, gerbera daisy and lantana. Native plants like cone flower, black-eyed susan (Rudbeckia), blanket flower (Gaillardia), tickseed (Coreopsis) and milkweed (Asclepias) are good choices for a more natural landscape and to support wildlife. You can install groundcovers and border plants like blueberry flax (Dianella), African iris, holly fern, autumn fern, liriope, mondo grass, aztec grass, society garlic, foxtail fern and Asiatic jasmine. Also, many bulbs can be planted at this time, particularly crinum, caladium, canna, and agapanthus. Ornamental grasses include sea oats, fountain grass, muhly grass and pampas grass. Some of the great tropicals we grow here seasonally or with occasional protection are variegated shell ginger, mandevilla, ixora, croton, cordyline, colocasia, stromanthe, bougainvillea and bird of paradise.

Vines: Vines include passion vine, English ivy, confederate jasmine, Carolina jessamine, morning glory, blue sky vine, bower vine, butterfly vine (Mascagnia), clerodendrum, crossvine, hyacinth bean, dutchman’s pipe, coral honeysuckle, Mexican flame vine, and moonflower.

Trees and Shrubs: Trees, shrubs and tropicals can be planted at this time with a little extra care to supply enough water. See the section on irrigation. Firebush (Hamelia), azaleas, princess flower (Tibouchina), loropetalum, bush daisy, coontie, pyracantha, banana shrub, bananas, crape myrtle, pineapple guava, hollies, junipers, gardenia, Japanese blueberry, ligustrum, oleander, pittosporum, podocarpus, viburnum, duranta, buddleia, bottlebrush, hydrangea, mimosa, thryallis, and Indian hawthorn can usually be found at this time. If you don’t find what you’re looking for, we may be able to locate it for you. Don’t forget edibles such as citrus, blueberries, blackberries, raspberries, figs, culinary ginger, goji berry and turmeric. We carry blackberries and raspberries with low chilling-hour requirements to grow in our mild climate.

CLICK HERE FOR CARE GUIDES!

Lawn: Sod can be planted at almost any time of year, but better when it is actively growing early in the season. Summer heat can be stressful but there is usually more rain during this time also. If your lawn failed previously in an area, make sure the best variety is installed for that location and do a soil test. Stagger pieces of sod and fit closely together. Wait 3-4 weeks before mowing and one to two months before fertilizing. If planting plugs, space 6-12 inches on center and don’t mow for at least 2-4 weeks or until firmly rooted, and don’t fertilize until they’ve grown together. Water sod and plugs lightly but frequently for the first month. Don’t apply a pre-emergent herbicide at least 2-4 months before sodding or plugging.

Vegetables and Herbs: We have many vegetables, herbs and edible shrubs for your garden. The best crops to plant for warm weather are okra, eggplant, peppers, beans of all types, southern peas, Malabar spinach and sweet potatoes. Although they grow well in summer, some of these crops and others such as corn and melons, need to be planted early to have enough time to produce. Summer squash and cucumbers should also already be in the ground, as should tomatoes to allow enough time before temperatures become too hot. Except for the cherry tomato type, tomato growth may already be starting to decline. See our handout Planting Guide for North Florida Vegetables, for vegetable growing information. CLICK HERE!

Many herbs don’t grow well after late spring, but these can stand up to the summer heat: lemon grass, lemon balm, lemon verbena, basil, African blue basil, cilantro, Cuban oregano, chives, Mexican tarragon, bay laurel, stevia, lavender, mint, rosemary, and oregano/marjoram. See our handout Planting Guide for North Florida Culinary Herbs for additional growing information. Also see Herbs for North Florida, for some specific variety and usage information for many of the herbs we carry. CLICK HERE!

Plant Focus

Pugster Butterfly Bush

Named because of its likeness to the Pug dog – the Pugster Butterfly Bush is short, stocky and adorable! Developed by Proven Winners, there are currently 5 colors in the series, which has won some Flowering Shrub of the Year Awards. Like other Buddleias it attracts pollinators and is drought and heat tolerant. It also blooms most of the season with a sweet honey fragrance and without deadheading. Its most endearing quality, though, are full size flower panicles on a shrub that maxes out at 2′, so it is especially useful in small gardens. And don’t be concerned about planting in mass as it is extremely hardy.

What to Do

Irrigate: Rain often increases toward the end of June, but in the meantime, aim for about 1″ of water weekly. Apply no more than 1/2 to 3/4″ at a time, to avoid runoff. The SJRWMD allows Wednesday/Saturday irrigation for odd numbered addresses and Thursday/Sunday irrigation for even numbered addresses, outside the hours of 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Nonresidential properties can water on Tuesdays/Fridays. Use of a micro-spray, micro-jet, drip or bubbler irrigation system is allowed any time. New plantings can be watered any time of day for 30 days post-planting and every other day for the next 30 days. Some trees may require up to 5 months of supplemental watering to establish strong roots; after the initial 2 months, this can be supplied by hand watering. It’s a good idea to check your sprinkler system for any breaks or misaligned spray heads at least monthly.

Mow: As temperatures rise and grass growth increases, frequent mowing produces a strong lawn. Never remove more than 1/3 of the leaf blade at a time and mow to the highest recommended height to support root growth. Here are the recommended mowing heights for several N. Florida grasses: Bahia grass at 3-4 “, Zoysiagrass coarse textured varieties at 3-4″ and fine textured at 1-2″, Centipedegrass at 1½ to 2½”, Seashore Paspalum at 1½ to 2″, and St. Augustinegrass at 3 to 4″ but up to 4.5″ in the shade with the standard varieties.

Fill Lawn: Fill in low spots in your lawn with quality sterile sand mixed with organic matter, an inch or two at a time. As the grass grows into this, repeat with another 1-2″ layer until the low level is even with existing ground.

Harvest: Continue to harvest citrus as it ripens. Many of the blueberry varieties will ripen this month.

Mulch: Replace deteriorating mulch with a new 2″ layer to moderate soil temperatures, retain soil moisture, and reduce erosion and weeds. Organic matter is added to the soil as mulch decomposes. Mulch also creates an attractive unified look to highlight your plantings. Florida’s warm and often wet weather can lead to rapid breakdown of mulch.

Solarize the soil: This is a good time to use a cover of clear plastic over garden soil as a non chemical method to control soil borne pests such as nematodes, insects, weeds, and pathogens by raising the temperature of the soil. It also speeds the breakdown of organic material so more soluble nutrients are in the soil. Dig a trench around the area to be solarized, wet the soil to 12″ deep, cover the area with 1-4 mil clear plastic and fill in the trenches over the plastic so there is a tight seal over the soil. Keep this down for 6-8 weeks, repairing any tears that might occur. When the process is finished, disturb the soil as little as possible so weed seeds which were deep below the surface aren’t brought up.

Fertilize: Lawn fertilization isn’t recommended now that temperatures have risen but other plantings may benefit from fertilizer at this time. Select a fertilizer with at least one third of its nitrogen as a slow release (non-water-soluble) form.

Fruiting shrubs and trees generally need more fertilizer during the year than other shrubs and trees. Recommendations for fruit tree products and frequency depends on the type of tree. Fertilize blueberries lightly every other month. Figs and bananas should be fertilized monthly. Citrus should be fertilized 3 or 4 times during the growing season, starting in March. See our handout Citrus Care Guide for more information. CLICK HERE!

Fertilize palms about every other month during the growing season. Palms need a high potassium to nitrogen ratio plus added magnesium so an 8-2-12 fertilizer with 4% magnesium works well.

Herbs and vegetables will benefit from a slow/continuous release organic fertilizer applied every 3 to 4 weeks (herbs at half strength). In general, even though it’s a little costlier, try to use a slow release fertilizer or fertilizer with at least 30% as a slow release component. These feed plants more consistently and lessen pollution. Discontinue fertilizing if plants go into obvious decline with the heat.

Control Weeds: Unless weeds are extensive, non-herbicidal methods of weed control should always be considered first, and now that the weather has heated up its even more important. Post-emergent herbicides shouldn’t be used if summer air temperatures are greater than 90°. Maintaining proper mowing height and frequency can eliminate many annual weeds in lawns. Alternative methods may be needed for weeds which establish and flower below the recommended height of the grass. If weeds aren’t extensive, its simpler to manually pull them. In beds and paths and where turf isn’t grown, a deep layer of mulch can smother weeds. In nonflammable areas such as sidewalk cracks, weeds can be torched.

If herbicides are required, Fertilome Weed Free Zone is a post-emergent herbicide for broad leaf weeds useful in 45-90°F temperatures. Fertilome Selective is useful for spot treatment. To control nut-sedge and dollar weed, make sure you’re not creating favorable conditions by over-watering your lawn. Always choose an herbicide that lists your lawn type on the label and follow instructions carefully as they can vary.

Monitor and Control Insects and Disease: Continue to monitor pests and disease on houseplants, lawns and gardens. Fungal disease can occur almost any time of year, especially if the landscape is over watered or watered at the wrong time of day. Bonide Infuse Systemic Disease Control can prevent and control fungal growth.

In lawns, watch for discolored areas, which may be a sign of disease. Take-all root rot is a fungal disease of lawns, occurring in St. Augustinegrass and bermudagrass, and often showing in spring or early summer when the turf is emerging from dormancy. A stressed lawn or prolonged periods of rain can also bring on the disease. Turfgrass decline can be difficult to diagnose but a maintenance program with Rockaway is a first step to controlling and identifying these problems.

Thrips, scale, and mites become more active in warm weather. Check for thrips on leaves and flowers of roses and gardenias. Inspect for oleander caterpillar damage on oleanders.

Aphids feed on tender new growth. Frequently scout the vegetable garden for these insects as well as scale, caterpillars and white fly, as insects are easier to control when first noticed. Beneficial insects such as ladybug beetles and lacewing can control soft-bodied insect pests. To maximize the effectiveness of these natural enemies, provide habitat and relief from high temperatures by increasing the amount and diversity of plants in your landscape. Refer to our handout Ladybugs, for storage and release information. CLICK HERE!

Insecticidal soap and horticultural soap sprays will also control many soft-bodied insect pests, and a product such as Dipel Dust with B.t. (Bacillus thunbergiensis) is useful against caterpillars. Spinosad is particularly effective on caterpillars and thrips (also leafminers, spider mites, mosquitoes, ants and fruit flies) and lasts up to 4 weeks. Additionally, it is safe for people, beneficial insects and adult butterflies, and safe for bees once it has dried. Neem oil can be used to combat insects, mites and fungus. Many insect problems require a combination of pest management products and techniques. .

The major lawn pests active this time of year are Southern Chinch Bug, Tropical Sod Webworm and Fall Armyworm. Mole crickets can be a pest of bermudagrass, bahiagrass, and centipedegrass.

Chinch bugs suck the juices from St. Augustinegrass at or just below the soil level. Injured plants look stunted, yellowed, wilted, or dead. Yellowish to burnt-brownish patches are often first noticed in sunny areas along sidewalks and driveways, or in poorly irrigated areas. To help control the problem, limit nitrogen fertilizer and reduce thatch thickness to minimize the bug’s habitat.

Newly hatched larvae of tropical sod webworm skeletonize grass blades while older larvae chew on grass blades near soil surface. Small patches of grass may look ragged and irregular. The adult moth does not cause damage but the life cycle from egg to adult only requires 5-6 weeks at 78°F.

Fall armyworm caterpillars skeletonize grass blades then later create bare spots. Mole crickets cause their destruction by tunneling under the surface causing damage to grass roots. Two of the three mole cricket species are also herbivorous.

Younger caterpillars of both armyworm and webworm are more easily controlled with reduced-risk products like B.t., halofenozide and spinosad. Bifenthrin also targets both these caterpillars and Chinch bugs. You can use a product like Hi Yield Bug Blaster Plus Above/Below. Bifenthrin can also be used to control mole crickets, as can a few other insecticides and beneficial nematodes. Controls for mole crickets should be applied by mid-June while the crickets are still small. Rotate combination products to reduce resistant populations and spot treat when possible.

In weedy areas and open fields, Lubber Grasshopper adults may be found from March to November. It may be possible to avoid the use of an insecticide by hand-picking the grasshoppers and mowing vegetation to appropriate heights.

For any problem, it may occasionally be less costly and more environmentally friendly to replace infected plants with another species that would be more appropriate for the site. Don’t be reluctant to remove a plant that just isn’t working.

The post June Newsletter appeared first on Rockaway Sustainable Landscaping - Jacksonville FL.

• What To Plant
• What To Do
• Plant Focus: Seabreeze Bamboo

Focus on Florida Friendly!

We are fortunate that there is a great variety of plants suitable for our North Florida yards, especially this time of year. But sometimes it’s easy to become overwhelmed by the number of choices we have. One way to be assured that your plantings are easy-care and appropriate is to choose plants identified by the University of Florida as Florida Friendly. You may even want to become certified as a Florida Friendly Yard by the Duval County Cooperative Extension, under the Florida Yards and Neighborhoods program. They recognize owners who use environmentally friendly practices and plants suited to their landscapes, provide habitat for wildlife, and avoid plants they have determined to be invasive. Your yard’s design can be natural and informal to conventional and manicured and still be Florida Friendly.

For help with developing any of your landscape, contact us to inquire about a landscape consultation. We can help with any size project, whether we create a complete master plan, or you simply need guidance on your next DIY project.

CLICK HERE FOR CONSULTATION FORM!

WHAT TO PLANT

Houseplants: Many plants which need indoor protection in winter will get a lift from outdoor summer-time life in North Florida. These transitional plants can be an important part of your outdoor design. Avoid direct sunlight for most, at least while they acclimate a few increasing hours each day to higher light conditions. We currently have a great selection including air plants, hoya, succulents, bromeliads, African violets, calla lilies, ferns, ZZ plants, orchids, palms, dracaena, ficus and more.

Annuals (Or Grown As Annuals): If supertunias, petunias and alyssum are planted so they receive afternoon shade or in moveable containers, then these can often be babied through the hot season until they can proliferate again in the fall. More reliable for May are angelonia, blue daze, caladium, celosia, coleus, gazania, pentas, vinca (Catharanthus), wax begonia, zinnia, helichrysum, verbena, bacopa, marigold (Tagetes), sunpatiens, melampodium, portulaca and sweet potato vine. Trailing torenia is particularly useful, with sustained flowering through the summer. It also doesn’t require, and does better without, full sun.

Perennials: Most perennial types can be planted now. Many perennials have very long bloom times, including salvia, beach sunflower, gaura, bush daisy, hibiscus, porterweed, yarrow, plumbago, firecracker grass (Russelia), firespike (Odontonema), bulbine, shrimp plant (Justicia), cigar plant (Cuphea), canna lily, gerbera daisy and lantana. Native plants like cone flower, black-eyed susan (Rudbeckia), blanket flower (Gaillardia), tickseed (Coreopsis) and milkweed (Asclepias) are good choices for a more natural landscape and to support wildlife. You can install groundcovers and border plants like blueberry flax (Dianella), African iris, holly fern, autumn fern, liriope, mondo grass, aztec grass, society garlic, foxtail fern and Asiatic jasmine. Also, many bulbs can be planted at this time, particularly crinum, caladium, canna, and agapanthus. Ornamental grasses include sea oats, fountain grass, muhly grass and pampas grass. Some of the great tropicals we grow here seasonally or with occasional protection are variegated shell ginger, mandevilla, ixora, croton, cordyline, colocasia, stromanthe, bougainvillea and bird of paradise.

Vines: Vines include passion vine, English ivy, confederate jasmine, Carolina jessamine, morning glory, blue sky vine, bower vine, butterfly vine (Mascagnia), clerodendrum, crossvine, hyacinth bean, dutchman’s pipe, coral honeysuckle, Mexican flame vine, and moonflower.

Trees and Shrubs: Its still cool enough to give trees and shrubs a good start. Fine choices are Firebush (Hamelia), azaleas, princess flower (Tibouchina), loropetalum, bush daisy, coontie, pyracantha, banana shrub, bananas, crape myrtle, pineapple guava, hollies, junipers, gardenia, Japanese blueberry, ligustrum, oleander, pittosporum, podocarpus, viburnum, duranta, buddleia, bottlebrush, Indian hawthorn, and St. Lukes plum. Don’t forget edibles such as citrus, blueberries, blackberries, raspberries, figs, culinary ginger, goji berry and turmeric. We carry blackberries and raspberries with low chilling-hour requirements to grow in our mild climate.

CLICK HERE FOR CARE GUIDES!

Lawn: Sod can be planted at almost any time of year, but better when it is actively growing early in the season. Summer heat can be stressful but there is usually more rain during this time also. If your lawn failed previously in an area, make sure the best variety is installed for that location and do a soil test. Stagger pieces of sod and fit closely together. Wait 3-4 weeks before mowing and one to two months before fertilizing. If planting plugs, space 6-12 inches on center and don’t mow for at least 2-4 weeks or until firmly rooted, and don’t fertilize until they’ve grown together. Water sod and plugs lightly but frequently for the first month. Don’t apply a pre-emergent herbicide at least 2-4 months before sodding or plugging. Bahiagrass, centipedegrass and bermudagrass can be started with seed by April. St. Augustinegrass is not an option for seeding.

Vegetables and Herbs: The best crops to plant for warm weather are okra, eggplant, peppers, beans of all types, southern peas, Malabar spinach and sweet potatoes. Although they grow well in summer, some of these crops and others such as corn and melons, need to be planted early to have enough time to produce. Summer squash and cucumbers should also already be in the ground, as should tomatoes to allow enough time before temperatures become too hot. If you plant any tomatoes now, the best would be cherry tomatoes as they seem to persist better than most. Swiss Chard can continue to be grown. See our handout Planting Guide for North Florida Vegetables, for vegetable growing information. CLICK HERE!

Good summer-time herbs to plant are lemon grass, basil, dill, Cuban oregano, chives, Mexican tarragon, garden sage, bay laurel, thyme, mint, rosemary, and oregano/marjoram. See our handout Planting Guide for North Florida Culinary Herbs for additional growing information. Also see Herbs for North Florida, for some specific variety and usage information for many of the herbs we carry. CLICK HERE!

Plant Focus

Seabreeze Bamboo

Seabreeze is an elegant bamboo with small leaves and fine texture. It is probably the best screening bamboo with its dense growth of lateral branching even at the base. Spaced 4′ to 6′ apart, individual plants will form a complete screen. Growth rate is extremely fast; a 3 gallon plant will reach about 10′ tall in the first year. To create a hedge, the height can be easily controlled with a simple pruning of the canes.

What to Do

Irrigate: May is usually a dry month so make sure your lawn and plantings aren’t showing signs of water stress. Aim for about 1″ of water weekly with no more than 1/2 to 3/4″ applied at a time, to avoid runoff. The SJRWMD allows Wednesday/Saturday irrigation for odd numbered addresses and Thursday/Sunday irrigation for even numbered addresses, outside the hours of 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Nonresidential properties can water on Tuesdays/Fridays. Use of a micro-spray, micro-jet, drip or bubbler irrigation system is allowed any time. New plantings can be watered anytime of day for 30 days post-planting and every other day for the next 30 days. Some trees may require up to 5 months of supplemental watering to establish strong roots; after the initial 2 months, this can be supplied by hand watering. It’s a good idea to check your sprinkler system for any breaks or misaligned spray heads at least monthly.

Mow: As temperatures rise and grass growth increases, frequent mowing produces a strong lawn. Mowing will remove some flowering stalks of annual
weeds and make weeds less noticeable. Never remove more than 1/3 of the leaf blade at a time and mow to the highest recommended height to support root growth. Here are the recommended mowing heights for several N. Florida grasses: Bahiagrass at 3-4″, Zoysiagrass coarse textured varieties at 3-4″ and fine textured at 1-2″, Centipedegrass at 1½ to 2½”, Seashore Paspalum at 1½ to 2″, and St. Augustinegrass at 3″ but up to 4″ in the shade with the standard varieties.

Fill Lawn: Fill in low spots in your lawn with quality sterile sand mixed with organic matter, an inch or two at a time. As the grass grows into this, repeat with another 1-2″ layer until the low level is even with existing ground.

Prune: Continue to deadhead old blooms on annuals. Prune spring flowering shrubs and trees such as azalea, dogwood, redbud, Japanese magnolia, spiraea and loropetalum after they finish blooming, but keep in mind these shouldn’t be pruned much after May, to ensure spring blooms next year. Remove dead fronds and old flowering parts from palms. Remove fruit from newly planted trees to help establish their roots and shoots.

It’s a good idea to sterilize your pruning tools with a disinfectant, between plants. Although a chlorine solution is often recommended, bleach is corrosive to metals and pitted pruners will harbor more microbes that the disinfectant can’t reach. Bleach remaining on the pruners is also damaging to plant tissue. Use Lysol instead – it is minimally corrosive and extremely effective against pathogens.

Harvest: Continue to harvest citrus as it ripens, and any remaining cool season herbs and crops, especially if they begin to bolt. Peaches, nectarines and plums should begin ripening.

Mulch: Mulch new plants after planting. Apply a light cover around new vegetable transplants, and seedlings after they germinate. A 2-3″ layer of mulch moderates soil temperatures, retains soil moisture, reduces erosion and weeds, and adds organic matter to the soil as it decomposes. Mulch also creates an attractive unified look to highlight your plantings. Florida’s warm and often wet weather can lead to rapid breakdown of mulch, so be on the lookout for our pre-order mulch deals. We can help you determine how much mulch you need for a specific area.

Fertilize: If you haven’t already fertilized your lawn, you can do so through May. Select a fertilizer with at least one third of its nitrogen as a slow release (non-water-soluble) form. After applying granular fertilizer, you will need to irrigate long enough to move the granules off the leaf blades and into the soil; this should require only about ¼” of water.

Fruiting shrubs and trees generally need more fertilizer during the year than other shrubs and trees. Recommendations for fruit tree products and frequency depends on the type of tree. Blueberries should receive just a light application every other month from about March until October. Citrus should be fertilized 3 or 4 times during the growing season, starting in March. See our handout Citrus Care Guide for more information. CLICK HERE!

Fertilize palms about every other month during the growing season. Palms need a high potassium to nitrogen ratio plus added magnesium so an 8-2-12 fertilizer with 4% magnesium works well. Azaleas also benefit from a little extra TLC. Apply a slow release acid fertilizer in March, May, August and early October.

Herbs and vegetables will benefit from a slow/continuous release organic fertilizer applied every 3 to 4 weeks (herbs at half strength). If you’ve built your soil following the instructions for preparing a raised garden in March’s newsletter, you may not need to fertilize all season. In general, even though it’s a little costlier, try to use a slow release fertilizer or fertilizer with at least 30% as a slow release component.These feed lawns and plants more consistently and lessen pollution.

Control Weeds: As the weather heats up its better to spot control weeds and avoid applying herbicides to the entire yard. Mow regularly, removing no more than 1/3 of the leaf blade and bag the clippings to remove weed flowers before they go to seed. Fertilome Weed Free Zone is a post-emergent herbicide for broad leaf weeds useful in 45-90°F temperatures. Fertilome Selective is useful for spot treatment. To control nut-sedge and dollar weed, make sure you’re not creating favorable conditions by over-watering your lawn. Always choose an herbicide that lists your lawn type on the label and follow instructions carefully as they can vary.

Monitor and Control Insects and Disease: Continue to monitor pests and disease on houseplants, lawns and gardens. Fungal disease can occur almost any time of year, especially if the landscape is over watered or watered at the wrong time of day. Bonide Infuse Systemic Disease Control can prevent and control fungal growth.

In lawns, watch for discolored areas, which may be a sign of disease. Large Patch is a fungal disease that will hopefully play out this month as grass begins to regrow. Take-all root rot is another fungal disease of lawns, occurring in St. Augustinegrass and bermudagrass and usually showing in spring or early summer when the turf is emerging from dormancy. Turfgrass decline can be difficult to diagnose but a maintenance program with Rockaway is a first step to controlling and identifying these problems.

Thrips, scale, and mites become more active in warm weather. Check for thrips on leaves and flowers of roses and gardenias. Inspect for oleander caterpillar damage on oleanders.

Aphids feed on tender new growth. Frequently scout the vegetable garden for these insects as well as scale, caterpillars and white fly, as insects are easier to control when first noticed. Beneficial insects such as ladybug beetles and lacewing can control soft-bodied insect pests. To maximize the effectiveness of these natural enemies, provide habitat and relief from high temperatures by increasing the amount and diversity of plants in your landscape. Refer to our handout Ladybugs, for storage and release information. CLICK HERE!

Insecticidal soap and horticultural soap sprays will also control many soft-bodied insect pests, and a product such as Dipel Dust with B.t. (Bacillus thunbergiensis) is useful against caterpillars. Spinosad is particularly effective on caterpillars and thrips (also leafminers, spider mites, mosquitoes, ants and fruit flies) and lasts up to 4 weeks. Additionally, it is safe for people, beneficial insects and adult butterflies, and safe for bees once it has dried. Neem oil can be used to combat insects, mites and fungus. Many insect problems require a combination of pest management products and techniques.

The major lawn pests active this time of year are Southern Chinch Bug, Tropical Sod Webworm and Fall Armyworm. Mole crickets can be a pest of bermudagrass, bahiagrass, and centipedegrass.

Chinch bugs suck the juices from St. Augustinegrass at or just below the soil level. Injured plants look stunted, yellowed, wilted, or dead. Yellowish to burnt-brownish patches are often first noticed along sidewalks or in poorly-irrigated areas. To help control the problem, limit nitrogen fertilizer and reduce thatch thickness to minimize the bug’s habitat.

Newly hatched larvae of tropical sod webworm skeletonize grass blades while older larvae chew on grass blades near soil surface. Small patches of grass may look ragged and irregular. The adult moth does not cause damage but the life cycle from egg to adult only requires 5-6 weeks at 78°F.

Fall armyworm caterpillars skeletonize grass blades then later create bare spots. Mole crickets cause their destruction by tunneling under the surface causing damage to grass roots. Two of the three mole cricket species are also herbivorous.

Younger caterpillars of both armyworm and webworm are more easily controlled with reduced-risk products like B.t., halofenozide and spinosad. Bifenthrin also targets both these caterpillars and Chinch bugs. You can use a product like Hi Yield Bug Blaster Plus Above/Below. Bifenthrin can also be used to control mole crickets, as can a few other insecticides and beneficial nematodes. Rotate combination products to reduce resistant populations and spot treat when possible.

In weedy areas and open fields, Lubber Grasshopper adults may be found from March to November. It may be possible to avoid the use of an insecticide by hand-picking the grasshoppers and mowing vegetation to appropriate heights.

For any problem it may occasionally be less costly and more environmentally friendly to replace infected plants with another species that would be more appropriate for the site. Don’t be reluctant to remove a plant that just isn’t working.

The post May Newsletter appeared first on Rockaway Sustainable Landscaping - Jacksonville FL.

• What To Plant
• What To Do
• Plant Focus: ‘Alice’ Oakleaf Hydrangea
• Plant Focus: ‘Angel Red’ Pomegranate
• Patio Gardening

Now that April has arrived, the threat of a frost or freeze should be behind us. We can begin to fully embrace warm season plants and practices. This means bringing in tropicals, warm season vegetables and gearing up for more pests! Even in warm Florida the landscape changes and there is more of a variety of flowering plants. If you’re a little behind starting your vegetables and herbs, you can always refer to the March newsletter for some guidance CLICK HERE!. For help with developing any of your landscape, contact us to inquire about a landscape consultation. We can help with any size project, whether we create a complete master plan, or you simply need guidance on your next DIY project.

1/2 OFF ALL CONSULTATIONS!
(OFFER EXPIRES APRIL 15TH!)

Call us at 904-289-2161!

CLICK HERE FOR CONSULTATION FORM!

WHAT TO PLANT

Houseplants: These can be grown anytime. We currently have a great selection of plants kept to enhance your indoor areas, including air plants, hoya, succulents, bromeliads, African violets, calla lilies, ferns, ZZ plants, orchids, palms, dracaena, ficus and more. There’s a plant for every light level in your home.

Annuals (Or Grown As Annuals): Remove declining violas and pansies. Petunia and supertunia, alyssum (Lobularia), dianthus, lobelia, and snapdragons can still be planted to enjoy now but will probably only last until June when the heat moves in. If supertunias, petunias and alyssum are planted so they receive afternoon shade or in moveable containers, then these can often be babied through the hot season until they can proliferate again in the fall. Also continue growing dusty miller, gazania, verbena, nemesia, celosia, marguerite daisy and geraniums. Any of the warm season flowers can now be planted. Add helichrysum, bacopa, marigold (Tagetes), coleus, sunpatiens, zinnia, begonia, melampodium, portulaca and sweet potato vine when available. Trailing torenia is particularly good to plant now with sustained flowering through the summer. It also doesn’t require, and does better without, full sun.

Perennials: Most perennial types can be planted now, even most of the cold-tender tropical ones. Some of the great tropicals we grow here seasonally or with occasional protection are variegated shell ginger, mandevilla, ixora, croton, cordyline, colocasia, stromanthe, bougainvillea and bird of paradise. Many perennials have very long bloom times, including blue daze, salvia, pentas, beach sunflower, gaura, bush daisy, hibiscus, yarrow, plumbago, firecracker grass (Russelia), firespike (Odontonema), bulbine, shrimp plant (Justicia), cigar plant (Cuphea), canna lily, gerbera daisy and lantana. Native plants like stokes aster, coneflower, black-eyed susan (Rudbeckia), blanket flower (Gaillardia), tickseed (Coreopsis) and milkweed (Asclepias) are good choices for a more natural landscape and to support wildlife. It’s a good time to install groundcovers and border plants like Blueberry flax (Dianella) and Asiatic jasmine. Also, many bulbs can be planted at this time, particularly crinum, caladium, canna,and agapanthus. Amaryllis bulbs and poinsettias purchased during the holidays can be planted in the landscape. See our handout on Amaryllis care for more information. CLICK HERE! Poinsettias can be planted out now. Trim fading bracts and choose a spot with 3-6 hours of sun that will not receive artificial light at night.

Other perennials which can be grown a little while longer before it becomes hot include foxglove, hollyhock, dahlias and delphinium.

Trees and Shrubs: Many varieties of azalea will be blooming this month. Some of the most reliable azaleas to grow here are the Southern Indica hybrids – Duc de Rohan, Formosa, George L. Taber, Mrs. GG Gerbing, and Southern Charm. Other fine choices are Firebush (Hamelia), princess flower (Tibouchina), loropetalum, duranta, buddleia, bottlebrush, Indian hawthorn, redbud, Carolina silverbell (Halesia), fringetree (Chionanthus) and St. Lukes plum. In early April satsuma, grapefruit, orange and other citrus can be planted. We are growing some exciting edible shrubs to complement your Grow Your Own gardening. Blueberry ‘Misty’ and ‘Jewel’, Blackberry ‘Natchez’, Raspberry ‘Nantahala’, Black Mission Fig, culinary ginger, goji berry, turmeric and eventually ‘Southern Jewel’ grape will be available.

Lawn: Sod can be planted at almost any time of year, but better when it is actively growing in spring. Summer heat can be stressful but there is usually more rain during this time also. If your lawn failed previously in an area, make sure the best variety is installed for that location and do a soil test. Stagger pieces of sod and fit closely together. Wait 3-4 weeks before mowing and one to two months before fertilizing. If planting plugs, space 6-12 inches on center and don’t mow for at least 2-4 weeks or until firmly rooted, and don’t fertilize until they’ve grown together. Water sod and plugs lightly but frequently for the first month. Don’t apply a pre-emergent herbicide at least 2-4 months before sodding or plugging. Bahiagrass, centipedegrass and bermudagrass can be started with seed by April. St. Augustinegrass is not an option for seeding.

Vegetables and Herbs: A few cool season vegetables can still be grown this month for a short period, like swiss chard, but this is mainly the time to start the warm season crops. Set out sweet potato slips, tomato, pepper, eggplant and cucumber plants. Plant seeds of cantaloupe, corn, southern peas, squash, watermelon, snap beans, pole beans, lima beans, and okra. Eggplant, melons, peppers and corn need 90 days of warm weather to mature so plant these as early as possible. See our handout Planting Guide for North Florida Vegetables, for vegetable growing information. CLICK HERE!

Most of the herbs you would grow here in North Florida can be started this time of year. Dill, cilantro/coriander, parsley, garden sage, thyme, mint, chives, rosemary, oregano/marjoram, fennel, and Mexican tarragon can now be joined by cold-sensitive basil. You may also want to try nasturtium for its pretty flowers and unusual leaves that add a pleasant flavor to salads, garnishes and dips. See our handout Planting Guide for North Florida Culinary Herbs for a more complete list. Also see Herbs for North Florida, for growing and usage information for many of the herbs. CLICK HERE!

Plant Focus

There are too many exciting plants out there right now to pick just one to highlight so here are two for this month.

‘Alice’ Oakleaf Hydrangea

Noticing a vigorous seedling growing in a stand of native oakleaf hydrangea, plantsman Michael Dirr began propagating this superior form. It has larger flowers, better fall color and very disease resistant leaves. Mature stems exfoliate to reveal rich brown inner bark. Growth is fast but little pruning is needed to maintain its broad rounded form. Blooms are produced from the previous year’s growth. A notable feature is its tolerance of a greater amount of sun than most hydrangeas. Alice makes a great gift!

‘Angel Red’ Pomegranate

This compact growing pomegranate may be the best on the market. Its controllable stature and showy color make it an exciting addition to a courtyard or patio garden. It is easy care, and heat and drought tolerant once established (as with any plant, it may require more water in a container). Angel Red pairs well with Italian cypress and with other plants you might have in a patio garden such as lavender, bay laurel, rosemary and Meyer lemon.

What to Do

Irrigate: Last month we changed back to following a twice weekly watering schedule but only water this often if it is needed. With the current rainfall you may even want to turn off irrigation systems and water as needed. The SJRWMD allows Wednesday/Saturday irrigation for odd numbered addresses and Thursday/Sunday irrigation for even numbered addresses, outside the hours of 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Nonresidential properties can water on Tuesdays/Fridays. Use of a micro-spray, micro-jet, drip or bubbler irrigation system is allowed any time. New plantings can be watered any time of day for 30 days post-planting and every other day for the next 30 days. Some trees may require up to 5 months of supplemental watering to establish strong roots; after the initial 2 months, this can be supplied by hand watering. It’s a good idea to check your sprinkler system for any breaks or misaligned spray heads at least monthly.

Mow: As temperatures rise and grass growth increases, frequent mowing produces a strong lawn. Mowing will remove some flowering stalks of annual weeds and make weeds less noticeable. This time of year, you may want to bag your clippings so winter annual weed seeds aren’t distributed on the lawn. Never remove more than 1/3 of the leaf blade at a time and mow
to the highest recommended height to support root growth. Here are the recommended mowing heights for several N. Florida grasses: Bahiagrass at 3-4″, Zoysiagrass coarse textured varieties at 3-4″ and fine textured at 1-2″,Centipedegrass at 1½ to 2½”, Seashore Paspalum at 1½ to 2″, and St. Augustinegrass at 2½ to 3″ but up to 4″ in the shade with the standard varieties.

Fill Lawn: Fill in low spots in your lawn with quality sterile sand mixed with organic matter, an inch or two at a time. As the grass grows into this, repeat with another 1-2″ layer until the low level is even with existing ground.

Prune: Continue to deadhead old blooms on annuals. Prune spring flowering shrubs and trees such as azalea, dogwood, redbud, Japanese magnolia, spiraea and loropetalum after they finish blooming. Remove dead fronds and old flowering parts from palms. Remove fruit from newly planted trees to help establish their roots and shoots. On established peaches and nectarines, thin to space fruit about 6-10″ apart when the fruit is about the size of a nickel. Trim tropical plants that may have suffered winter damage(for example, crotons, jatropha, hibiscus, and tibouchina). If severe enough, these may need pruning close to ground level, but most will grow back. Firebush, hibiscus and salvia also benefit from a trim.

It’s a good idea to sterilize your pruning tools with a disinfectant, between plants. Although a chlorine solution is often recommended, bleach is corrosive to metals and pitted pruners will harbor more microbes that the disinfectant can’t reach. Bleach remaining on the pruners is also damaging to plant tissue.Use Lysol instead – it is minimally corrosive and extremely effective against pathogens.

Harvest: Continue to harvest citrus as it ripens, herbs as needed and any remaining cool season crops, especially if they begin to bolt.

Clean Beds: Remove declining violas and pansies. Remove old camellia and azalea blossoms from the ground to minimize the spread of disease. Once the soil has warmed, rake up old mulch that hasn’t decomposed and dead foliage, and add 2-3″ fresh mulch. You may want to wait on adding mulch if you are looking for volunteers to come up from seed. Finish by renewing a clean edge around your beds with a flat shovel blade.

Mulch: The ground should have warmed sufficiently by now so that mulching won’t interfere with the warming process. Mulch new plants after planting. Apply a light cover around new vegetable transplants, and seedlings after they germinate. A 2-3″ layer of mulch moderates soil temperatures, retains soil moisture, reduces erosion and weeds, and adds organic matter to the soil as it decomposes. Mulch also creates an attractive unified look to highlight your plantings. Florida’s warm and often wet weather can lead to rapid breakdown of mulch.

Fertilize: This would be a good time to perform a soil test for your lawn. Go to http://soilslab.ifas.ufl.edu/ESTL%20Home.asp for online instructions.
The general lawn fertilizer recommendation calls for no phosphorus – the middle number in the fertilizer formula. However there have been an increasing number of lawns showing phosphorus deficiencies (reduced growth and dark green foliage sometimes with purple lower shoots), and a soil test will show aberrancies in other nutrients and pH too.

Wait until most of your lawn has greened up for at least 3 weeks before applying fertilizer so it can process the nitrogen. You can use a fertilizer that has equal amounts of nitrogen and potassium, and no phosphorus, such as 15-0-15 or 20-0-20. To figure how many pounds of fertilizer is needed, divide 100 by the % of nitrogen (the first number in the formula) on the fertilizer bag. For 15-0-15 this would be 100 ÷ 15 = 6.67 pounds for every 1,000 sq. ft. of lawn. After applying granular fertilizer, you will need to irrigate long enough to move the granules off the leaf blades and into the soil; this should require only about ¼” of water.

The fertilizer should also have at least one third of its nitrogen as a slow release (non-water soluble) form. In the case of the 15-0-15, this would be 5% as stated on the label. It is a superior, environmentally sound slow release fertilizer with organic nitrogen in a 16-0-8 plus 1% Mg formula for your lawn and garden.

Also useful is Nitroganic fertilizer, a milorganite-type product which contains slow release nitrogen at a lower rate and which can be applied at 10 week intervals for slow, consistent fertilizing. It is non-burning and feeds the soil while feeding the plants.

If you didn’t fertilize in March, the same fertilizer you use on your lawn can be used on other plants such as shrubs, trees, flowers and ground covers if it only contains fertilizer (not a weed and feed product). Young trees and shrubs should receive ½ to 1-pound Nitrogen per 1,000 sq. ft. Keep fertilizer away from the base of the plant. Fertilizers formulated for acid-loving plants are better for azaleas, camellias, hydrangeas (if you want the flower color to be bluer), magnolias, hollies, gardenias, dogwoods, beech and blueberries. Fertilize azaleas after their blooms fade. Blueberries should receive just a light application every other month until October, so skip this month if you fertilized them last month. There is no need to fertilize mature shrubs and trees.

Fertilize palms if you didn’t at the end of March. Palms need a high potassium to nitrogen ratio plus added magnesium so an 8-2-12 fertilizer with 4% magnesium works well. Herbs and vegetables will benefit from a slow/continuous release organic fertilizer applied every 3 to 4 weeks (herbs at half strength). If you’ve built your soil following the instructions for preparing a raised garden in last month’s newsletter, you may not need to fertilize all season. In general, even though it’s a little costlier, try to use a slow release fertilizer or fertilizer with at least 30% as a slow release component. These feed lawns and plants more consistently and lessen pollution.

Control Weeds: Many existing lawn weeds this time of year are winter annuals about to flower and die. Mow regularly removing no more than 1/3 of the leaf blade and bag the clippings to remove weed flowers before they go to seed. Avoid the use of post-emergent herbicides during spring green-up. After new turf growth begins, if a post-emergent herbicide is needed, you can use a Weed and Feed product formulated for your lawn type to simultaneously apply both a fertilizer and herbicide, such as Fertilome Weed-Out Plus Lawn Fertilizer. Fertilome Weed Free Zone is a post-emergent herbicide for broad leaf weeds useful in 45-90°F temperatures. Fertilome Selective is useful for spot treatment. To control nut-sedge and dollar weed, make sure you’re not creating favorable conditions by over-watering your lawn. Always choose an herbicide that lists your lawn type on the label and follow instructions carefully as they can vary.

Monitor and Control Insects and Disease: Continue to monitor pests and disease on houseplants, lawns and gardens. A dose of insecticidal soap or Neem Oil (combats insects, mites and fungus) may be needed on houseplants.

Fungal disease can occur almost any time of year, especially if the landscape is over watered or watered at the wrong time of day. Bonide Infuse Systemic Disease Control can prevent and control fungal growth.

Watch for discolored areas in lawns, which may be a sign of disease. Large Patch is a fungal disease that can still be a problem in warm season grasses this time of year. Treated lawns will return to a healthy appearance once new growth begins.

The major lawn pests active this time of year are Southern Chinch Bug, Tropical Sod Webworm and Fall Armyworm. Chinch bugs suck the juices from St. Augustinegrass at or just below the soil level. Injured plants look stunted, yellowed, wilted, or dead. Yellowish to burnt-brownish patches are often first noticed along sidewalks or in poorly-irrigated areas. To help control the problem, limit nitrogen fertilizer and reduce thatch thickness to minimize the bug’s habitat.

Newly hatched larvae of tropical sod webworm skeletonize grass blades while older larvae chew on grass blades near soil surface. Small patches of grass may look ragged and irregular. The adult moth does not cause damage but the life cycle from egg to adult only requires 5-6 weeks at 78°F.
Fall armyworm caterpillars skeletonize grass blades then later create bare spots. Younger caterpillars are more easily controlled (both webworm and armyworm) with reduced-risk products like B.t., halofenozide and spinosad.
Bifenthrin also targets all three of these lawn pests. You can use a product like Hi Yield Bug Blaster Plus Above/Below. Rotate combination products to reduce resistant populations and spot treat when possible.

In weedy areas and open fields, Lubber Grasshoppers can begin to be a problem this time of year as the babies hatch in spring. They cause vast damage, especially to grasses and grass-like vegetation, lilies, amaryllis and plumbago. They move slowly and don’t fly so it is possible to kill them by hand-picking. They are also most vulnerable to pesticides at this stage; treat with carbaryl, bifenthrin or permethrin containing products.

Check for thrips on leaves and flowers of roses and gardenias.

Aphids feed on tender new growth. Frequently scout the vegetable garden for these insects as well as scale, caterpillars and white fly, as insects are easier to control when first noticed. Beneficial insects such as ladybug beetles and lacewing can control soft-bodied insect pests. To maximize the effectiveness of these natural enemies, provide habitat and relief from high temperatures by increasing the amount and diversity of plants in your landscape. Refer to our handout Ladybugs, for storage and release information. CLICK HERE!

Horticultural soap sprays will also control many soft-bodied insect pests, and a product such as Dipel Dust with B.t. (Bacillus thunbergiensis) is useful against caterpillars. Spinosad is particularly effective on caterpillars and thrips (also leafminers, spider mites, mosquitoes, ants and fruit flies) and lasts up to 4 weeks. Additionally, it is safe for people, beneficial insects and adult butterflies, and safe for bees once it has dried. Many insect problems require a combination of pest management products and techniques.

For some problems it is occasionally less costly and more environmentally friendly to replace infected plants with another species that would be more appropriate for the site.

Patio Gardening “Container to Table”!

Full-fledged vegetable gardens aren’t the only ways to provide food and a growing experience for your family. Even small spaces like balconies, patios and courtyards can produce enough to substantially offset your grocery purchases. It can also be done in a way that fits with the aesthetics of your outdoor living space. You can apply the same design elements for arrangements of herbs and vegetables as you would any container, to include considerations about color, texture, form, scale, repetition etc. Many vegetables and herbs have attractive features and can be successfully mixed with non-edibles to make a pleasing display.

Container and Support Types: Almost any kind of container will do for herbs and vegetables as long as it has drainage holes. Black pots and metals will absorb more heat. Condensed rubber “pot risers” or ceramic feet can be used to keep the pots off the ground or flooring, so they drain better and don’t cause staining. Containers have the advantage of mobility so you can position them for optimum sun or shade as the season changes.

Strawberry jars can hold an assortment of small herbs. Fabric grow bags have their place too and are especially good for growing potatoes. They can be easily folded and stored when not in use.

Use structures such as a low wall with an interior trough to create planting opportunities for small low herbs like colorful thyme or oregano. Trellises can be fit between other structures of a patio or courtyard to provide support for climbers. Or they can be leaned against a wall or fence. A climbing bean can be planted to mix with a more ornamental climber such as a black-eyed susan vine or cold-sensitive mandevilla and both removed at the end of the season. Tee pee-type trellises made of bamboo stakes can also be positioned around a pot. Place supports when you plant so roots and stems aren’t damaged.

Pallets can be lined with weed cloth, filled with light weight soil and planted with small annuals, lettuces or herbs. Once seeds have germinated and established for 2-3 weeks or transplants have grown in for a week, the pallet can be leaned and made more vertical to take up less space.

Window boxes are an option too, for small to medium plants like parsley, basil and cilantro, whether they’re on your house, balcony or deck railing. Cherry tomatoes and strawberries can be grown in hanging baskets. An iron basket of nasturtiums on a gate is quaint. Even gutters can be configured to a certain length, painted and drainage holes added for an unusual but useful herb garden.

How to Grow: The soil mix and moisture level are probably the two most important considerations for container growing. The soil should be well draining. If you created the “square foot gardening mix’ for a raised planter earlier this spring, this same formula can be used – 1/3 peat moss to 1/3 vermiculite and 1/3 compost. Alternatively, others have used 2 parts potting soil to 1-part compost and 1-part peat or vermiculite. Fertilize with a slow release organic fertilizer at planting and then beginning about a month later apply soluble liquid fertilizer every 1-2 weeks using a 15-30-15 formula for fruiting vegetables and root crops, and a 20-20-20 formula for leafy vegetables. Herbs should instead be followed with minimal fertilizer as heavy applications will produce large plants with reduced flavor and aroma.

See below for recommendations of container size. The minimum soil depth for most herbs and greens is about 6 inches, but a larger pot is easier to keep well-watered. Most vegetables need about a 5-gallon container. Save the largest containers for climbers that need a sturdy trellis, such as vining beans, vine tomatoes, Malabar spinach, cucumbers, peppers, squash and melon. Use self-watering pots and automatic drip waterers where possible to reduce your maintenance.

To maximize space, you can plant root crops, low growers and climbers in the same pot. Some low growers like lettuces would prefer the part shade provided by the taller plants.

Start beans, corn, carrots, radishes, parsley, dill, fennel, borage, cilantro, chervil and nasturtium from seeds sown directly into the pot. If you use transplants of bunching onions, okra, melons and squash, take extra care in handling them.

Group plants with similar sun and moisture needs.

Because of its aggressive growth, mint is usually best grown in a pot by itself.

Plant Suggestions: Almost any herb can be grown in a container. The following vegetables are easy, productive choices for container gardening:

Asian Greens – such as Bok Choy. Use a container that is at least 20 inches deep by 12 inches wide per plant.
Beans – need a pot that is minimum 12 inches deep / 5-gallon capacity, and a strong trellis structure for support. A larger pot would allow additional plants like kale and celery to grow alongside. There are bush varieties that don’t require support.
Beets – use a 2 to 5-gallon container.
Carrots – container size (6 – 15 inches deep) may vary according to the carrot type you’re growing and planting depth it requires. It’s best to grow the shorter varieties such as Thumbelina or Short ‘N Sweet. Direct seed into a 2 to 5-gallon container. Thin carrot seedlings (when they’re 2 inches tall) to about 2 – 3 inches apart.
Cucumber – 2 transplants per 5-gallon container. There are bush varieties that don’t require support.
Edible Flowers – besides being edible and useful in dishes from soups to sauces, stir fry, salads, teas and even ice cream, these flowers can be used to brighten arrangements: marigolds, calendula, viola, nasturtium, rose petals, hibiscus, citrus blossoms and many of the blossoms of herbs typically grown.
Eggplant – one eggplant per 5-gallon container, at least 12 inches deep.
Garlic – choose a pot that is at least 6-8 inches deep and as wide as possible; you’ll need to leave 5-6 inches of space between each clove you plant.
Kale – can be grown in small sized pots. Each plant requires at least 6 inches of space.
Kohlrabi – 3 transplants per 5-gallon container.
Lettuce – one transplant per 1-gallon container. Choose a wide planter rather than deep; six inches deep is fine. When planting, make sure to leave at least four inches between each plant. Leaf lettuces can be grown more closely than head lettuces. You can harvest leaf lettuce multiple times throughout the (cool) growing season.
Okra – dwarf okra varieties are more suitable for containers. Pot should be at least 3 gallons in size. Ideally, a 5-gallon pot that is 10-12 inches deep and similar in diameter would be better. Best to choose a black colored pot as okra loves heat.
Onion – in a 1 gallon or larger container, thin to 2 inches between green onions and 6 inches between bulb onions.
Peas – direct seed into a 5-gallon container and thin to 5 inches apart. Choose a dwarf or bush type variety and do regular and frequent watering as peas prefer slightly moist soil.
Peppers and chilies – a large pot that is at least 12 inches deep and 16 inches across is optimum, or a 5-gallon container. It may require a cage or stick for support.
Radish – in a 2 gallon or larger container, thin to 3 inches apart. Can also grow them in small and wide pots. A planter that is just 6 inches deep is enough but if you want to grow larger varieties, use an 8 to 10-inch-deep pot. Allow 3 inches of space between each plant.
Spinach – in a 1 gallon or larger container, at least 6-8 inches deep, space 3 inches apart.
Summer squash – summer squashes (Zucchini) are more productive than winter squashes. Plant two transplants per 5-gallon container. There are bush varieties that don’t require support.
Swiss Chard – 4 plants per 5-gallon container. Each plant requires at least 6 inches of space.
Tomatoes – one transplant per 5-gallon container, at least 20 inches across for standard and vining types. The easiest to grow in containers are dwarf varieties of the determinate (reach a certain size and stop growing) type. Big Boy, Bush Champion, Early Girl Bush, and Window Box Roma are just a few of the many choices. They need little to no support. Also grow cherry
tomatoes as they are very high yielding with long staying power.

Some other plants made for patio life:

‘Baby Cakes’ blackberry
‘Mini Love’ watermelon
‘Raspberry Shortcake’ raspberry
‘Angel Red’ pomegranate
Bay laurel
‘Celestial’ fig
Meyer lemon
Dwarf navel orange
Key lime
Kaffir lime
Limequat

The post April Newsletter appeared first on Rockaway Sustainable Landscaping - Jacksonville FL.

• What To Plant
• What To Do
• Plant Focus: Mandarin “Sugar Belle”
• Make Your Bed!
• Starting Plants From Seeds
• Top Low Light House Plants

March is an exciting month in north Florida when we start feeling more confident about planting for warm weather. A freeze is still possible but most north Florida experts feel we are safe from frosts and freezes by mid-March, and recently there’s been a shift to planting even earlier. If not, you can refer to the end of this newsletter. Also, you can always contact us to inquire about a landscape consultation to develop any size project, whether we create a complete master plan, or you simply need guidance on your next DIY project.

CLICK HERE FOR CONSULTATION FORM!

WHAT TO PLANT

If your landscape is vulnerable to hungry deer, more damage may be seen this time of year. Our handout Deer Resistant Plants for North Florida CLICK HERE! has suggestions of annuals, perennials, shrubs, vines and other plants to try.

Annuals (Or Grown As Annuals): You can still plant these cool season bedding plants: supertunias petunias, alyssum (Lobularia), marigolds (Calendula), snapdragons, dianthus, lobelia, nemesia, diascia, dusty miller, verbena, gazania, and geraniums. Most of these will bloom until June or when hot weather arrives. Try to provide at least 4 hours of full sun. Trailing torenia is particularly good for planting now with sustained flowering through the summer. It also doesn’t require, and does better without, full sun. Add helichrysum, bacopa, coleus, senetti, sunpatiens, zinnia, begonia and sweet potato vine when available.

Perennials: Most perennial types can be planted now but wait on some of the cold-tender types. See our handout titled Tropic Life to identify those tender plants. CLICK HERE! Many of the perennials have very long bloom times, including blue daze, salvia, pentas, beach sunflower, gaura, bush daisy, hibiscus, yarrow, plumbago and lantana. Many bulbs can be planted at this time also, particularly crinum, caladium, canna, and agapanthus. Amaryllis bulbs and poinsettias purchased during the holidays can be planted in the landscape. See our handout on Amaryllis care for more information. CLICK HERE! Poinsettias can be planted as soon as the danger of frost is past. Trim fading bracts and choose a spot with 3-6 hours of sun that will not receive artificial light at night.

Other perennials which can be grown a little while longer before it becomes hot include foxglove, hollyhock, dahlias and delphinium.

Trees and Shrubs: Early-season varieties of azaleas will still be blooming this month as well as japonica camellias, so if you purchase now you can be sure to get the bloom type and color you want. See our Camellia Variety List for descriptions of the many cultivars we have available. CLICK HERE! Some of the most reliable azaleas to grow here are the Southern Indica hybrids – Duc de Rohan, Formosa, George L. Taber, Mrs. GG Gerbing, and Southern Charm. Deciduous fruit trees and shrubs, if not already planted, can be planted now. Plants established early in the spring (if not done in fall) handle the stress of summer better. At the end of March, satsuma, grapefruit, orange and other citrus can be planted. We are growing some exciting edible shrubs to complement your Grow Your Own gardening. Blueberry ‘Misty’ and ‘Jewel’, Blackberry ‘Nantahala’, Raspberry ‘Natchez’, Black Mission Fig, culinary ginger, and eventually ‘Southern Jewel’ grape, goji berry and turmeric will be available.

CLICK HERE FOR CARE GUIDES!

Lawn: Sod can be planted at almost any time of year, but better when it is actively growing in spring. Summer heat can be stressful but there is usually more rain during this time also. If your lawn failed previously in an area, make sure the best variety is installed for that location and do a soil test. Stagger pieces of sod and fit closely together. Wait 3-4 weeks before mowing and one to two months before fertilizing. If planting plugs, space 6-12 inches on center and don’t mow for at least 2-4 weeks or until firmly rooted, and don’t fertilize until they’ve grown together. Water sod and plugs lightly but frequently for the first month. Don’t apply a pre-emergent herbicide at least 2-4 months before sodding or plugging. If you plan to start or renovate your lawn using seed, it’s best to wait until April. Bahiagrass, centipedegrass and bermudagrass can be started with seed. St. Augustinegrass is not an option for seeding.

Vegetables and Herbs: You can continue planting some cool season vegetables such as kohlrabi, English peas, leeks, mustard greens, arugula, spinach, swiss chard, collards, carrots, radishes, and bunching onions. You may also be able to plant beets, endive, lettuce, potatoes, turnips and celery although these may be less successful if it warms up quickly. Mid-March is a safe date for planting warm season crops. Set out sweet potato slips, tomato, pepper, eggplant and cucumber plants. Seed cantaloupe, corn, southern peas, squash and watermelons. A few plants need warmer temperatures to germinate so you may want to wait until the end of March to plant seeds of snap beans, pole beans, lima beans, and okra. See our handout Vegetable Planting Guide for North Florida for vegetable growing information. CLICK HERE!

For herbs, grow dill, cilantro, parsley, garden sage, thyme, mint, chives, rosemary, oregano, fennel, marjoram, and Mexican tarragon. Basil can be grown soon but you need to wait on a little warmer temperature. See our handout Herbs for North Florida, for growing and usage information for many of the herbs. CLICK HERE! Also available this month will be a more in-depth planting guide for herbs.

Plant Focus: Mandarin “Sugar Belle”

What to Do

Irrigate: On Sunday, March 10 we change back to Daylight Savings Time and yards can be watered twice weekly – Wednesdays/Saturdays for odd numbered addresses and Thursdays/Sundays for even numbered addresses, outside the hours of 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Nonresidential properties can water on Tuesdays/Fridays. Use of a micro-spray, micro-jet, drip or bubbler irrigation system is allowed any time. New plantings can be watered any time of day for 30 days post-planting and every other day for the next 30 days. Some trees may require up to 5 months of supplemental watering to establish strong roots; after the initial 2 months, this can be supplied by hand watering. It’s a good idea to check your sprinkler system for any breaks or misaligned spray heads at least monthly.

Mow: The need for mowing will start increasing this month as temperatures rise. Mowing will remove some flowering stalks of annual weeds and make weeds less noticeable. This time of year, you may want to bag your clippings so winter annual weed seeds aren’t distributed on the lawn. Never remove more than 1/3 of the leaf blade at a time and mow to the highest recommended height to support root growth. Here are the recommended mowing heights for several N. Florida grasses: Bahiagrass at 3-4″, Zoysiagrass coarse textured varieties at 3-4″ and fine textured at 1-2″, Centipedegrass at 1 ½ to 2 ½”, Seashore Paspalum at 1 ½ to 2″, and St. Augustinegrass at 2 ½ to 3″ but up to 4″ in the shade with the standard varieties.

Fill Lawn: Fill in low spots in your lawn with quality sterile sand mixed with organic matter, an inch or two at a time. As the grass grows into this, repeat with another 1-2″ layer until the low level is even with existing ground.

Prune: Continue to deadhead old blooms on annuals. Prune summer flowering shrubs and trees if they have not begun spring growth as these mostly flower from new wood. Prune spring flowering shrubs and trees such as azalea, dogwood, redbud, Japanese magnolia, spiraea and loropetalum after they finish blooming. Prune deciduous fruit trees before growth begins, to open and thin the canopy and remove crossing and rubbing branches. Generally, young trees should be trained or pruned to a central leader by eliminating branches that compete with it. Trees allowed to develop with more than one leader are potentially weaker with age. Remove dead fronds and old flowering parts from palms. Before new growth begins, trim Asiatic jasmine to make a denser cover, and cut ornamental grasses to 1-2′ from the ground. Avoid topping crape myrtles. These trees should be pruned to improve their form by removing excess growth in the interior, and eliminating crossing and rubbing branches, seed pods and any suckers. Remove entire branches and don’t leave stubs. About mid-March, if the 10-day forecast shows no risk of frost or freeze, trim tropical plants that may have suffered winter damage (for example, crotons, jatropha, hibiscus, and tibouchina). If severe enough, these may need pruning close to ground level, but most will grow back. Firebush and Salvia also benefit from a trim.

It’s a good idea to sterilize your pruning tools with a disinfectant, between plants. Although a chlorine solution is often recommended, bleach is corrosive to metals and pitted pruners will harbor more microbes that the disinfectant can’t reach. Bleach remaining on the pruners is also damaging to plant tissue. Use Lysol instead – it is minimally corrosive and extremely effective against pathogens.

Clean Beds: Remove old camellia and azalea blossoms from the ground to minimize the spread of disease. Once the soil has warmed toward the end of the month, rake up old mulch that hasn’t decomposed and dead foliage, and add 2-3″ fresh mulch. You may also want to wait on adding mulch if you are looking for volunteers to come up from seed. Finish by renewing a clean edge around your beds with a flat shovel blade.

Fertilize: This would be a good time to perform a soil test for your lawn. Go to http://soilslab.ifas.ufl.edu/ESTL%20Home.asp for online instructions. The general fertilizer recommendation calls for no phosphorus – the middle number in the formula. However there have been an increasing number of lawns showing phosphorus deficiencies (reduced growth and dark green foliage sometimes with purple lower shoots), and a soil test will show aberrancies in other nutrients and pH too.

Wait until most of your lawn has greened up for at least 3 weeks before applying fertilizer (usually late March or even April for some grasses) so it can process the nitrogen. Use a fertilizer that has equal amounts of nitrogen and potassium, and no phosphorus, such as 15-0-15 or 20-0-20.The fertilizer should also have at least one third of its nitrogen as a slow release (non-water soluble) form. In the case of the 15-0-15, this would be 5% as stated on the label. To figure how many pounds of fertilizer is needed, divide 100 by the % of nitrogen (the first number in the formula) on the fertilizer bag. For 15-0-15 this would be 100 ÷ 15 = 6.67 pounds for every 1,000 sq. ft. of lawn. After applying fertilizer, you will need to irrigate long enough to move the granules off the leaf blades and into the soil; this should require only about ¼” of water.

The same fertilizer you used on your lawn (15-0-15) can be used on other plants such as shrubs, trees, flowers and ground covers if it only contains fertilizer (not a weed and feed product). Young trees and shrubs should receive ½ to 1-pound Nitrogen per 1,000 sq. ft. Keep fertilizer away from the base of the plant. Fertilizers formulated for acid-loving plants are better for azaleas, camellias, hydrangeas (if you want the flower color to be bluer), magnolias, hollies, gardenias, dogwoods, beech and blueberries. Fertilize azaleas after their blooms fade. Blueberries should receive just a light application. There is no need to fertilize mature shrubs and trees.

Palms need a high potassium to nitrogen ratio plus added magnesium so an 8-2-12 fertilizer with 4% magnesium works well. Fertilize at the end of March.
Herbs and vegetables will benefit from a slow/continuous release organic fertilizer applied every 3 to 4 weeks. In general, even though it’s a little costlier, try to use a slow release fertilizer or fertilizer with at least 30% as a slow release component. These feed lawns and plants more consistently and lessen pollution.

Mulch: You may want to wait briefly to give soils a chance to warm up before applying more mulch, especially around tropicals. Mulch new plants after planting. Apply a light cover around new vegetable transplants, and seedlings after they germinate. A 2-3″ layer of mulch helps cool the soil and maintain soil moisture, reduce erosion and weeds, and adds organic matter to the soil as it decomposes. Mulch also creates an attractive unified look to highlight your plantings. Florida’s warm and often wet weather can lead to rapid breakdown of mulch, so be on the lookout for our preorder mulch deals.

Control Weeds: To limit developing warm-season weeds in lawns, apply a pre-emergent herbicide when temperatures are 65°F – 70°F for 4-5 days. This generally occurs about the first of March in this area, often when azaleas and dogwoods begin to bloom. Activate with moderate irrigation within 2 days of application.

Many existing lawn weeds this time of year are winter annuals about to flower and die. Mow regularly removing no more than 1/3 of the leaf blade and bag the clippings to remove weed flowers before they go to seed. Avoid the use of post-emergent herbicides during spring green-up. To control nut-sedge and dollar weed, make sure you’re not creating favorable conditions by over watering your lawn. Always choose an herbicide that lists your lawn type on the label.

Monitor and Control Insects and Disease: Continue to monitor pests and disease on houseplants, lawns and gardens. A dose of insecticidal soap or Neem Oil (combats insects, mites and fungus) may be needed on house plants.

Fungal disease can occur almost any time of year, especially if the landscape is overwatered or watered at the wrong time of day.

Watch for discolored areas in lawns, which may be a sign of disease. Large Patch is a fungal disease that can still be a problem in warm season grasses this time of year. Treated lawns will return to a healthy appearance once new growth begins.

Although all stages are present year-round in most of the state, Southern chinch bugs become more active again about now, sucking the juices from St. Augustinegrass at or just below the soil level. Injured plants look stunted, yellowed, wilted, or dead. Yellowish to burnt-brownish patches are often first noticed along sidewalks or in poorly-irrigated areas. Rotate combination products to reduce resistant populations and spot treat when possible. Also helpful is to avoid fertilizing and reduce thatch thickness to minimize the bug’s habitat.

Frequently scout the vegetable garden as insects are easier to control when first noticed. Horticultural soap sprays will control many soft-bodied insect pests, and a product such as Dipel Dust with Bt (Bacillus thunbergiensis) is useful against caterpillars. Spinosad is particularly effective on caterpillars and thrips (also leafminers, spider mites, mosquitoes, ants and fruit flies) and lasts up to 4 weeks. Additionally, it is safe for people, beneficial insects and adult butterflies, and safe for bees once it has dried. Apply horticultural oil to citrus, shrubs, camellias and deciduous fruit trees while plants are dormant, to control scale. Many insect problems require a combination of pest management products and techniques.

Harvest: Continue to harvest citrus as it ripens. Harvest herbs and cool season vegetables frequently, especially if cool season crops begin to bolt.

Start your Spring Vegetable Garden: Hopefully last month you chose the warm season crops you want to grow and started seeds indoors for those crops you want to give a quick start. If you still need to prepare your garden or grow more seeds, refer to the end of this newsletter for instructions. Most vegetables need to grow about 6 weeks before transplanting to the garden. It is considered safe to plant by mid-March (although see the What To Plant section for those crops which need to wait a little longer), and recently it’s been possible to plant even earlier to beat the heat and insect pests. Here at the beach winters tend to be milder but spring may be slower to heat up.

Prevent Cold Damage: Since we may still have a final cold spell during March here are a few quick tips to avoid damage.

• Delay your spring cleanup of grounds until at least the middle of the month.
• Where possible, provide overhead cover with overhangs, porches and even taller plants.
• Bundle large leaves so they are either pointing up or down.
• Use a freeze cloth. Freeze cloths need to extend over the ground to catch the heat retained there. A string of Christmas lights under the cover can make a difference too.
• Harvest ripe citrus fruit if temperatures will be 28° for 4 or more hours.
• If plant damage occurs, refer to our handout Helping Your Plants After a Freeze. CLICK HERE!

Make Your Bed!

What to Grow: You may already have a productive cool season garden and just need to decide which warm season crops you’ll grow and where. It’s helpful to record the varieties you grew and include any notes you want to remember the following season. It’s also important to rotate crops from year to year to increase soil fertility and break the life cycle of disease organisms and pests. Our handout “Planting Guide for North Florida Vegetables” CLICK HERE! can help you decide on your crops. Use the Plant Family column so you can avoid successively planting vegetables from the same family. Grow what your family likes to eat and if it’s your first time, don’t try too much at once. You can also grow small amounts in 2 week intervals to keep a manageable amount coming.

Where to Grow: If you don’t already have a garden location, choose the sunniest site on your property. Account for any deciduous trees that may block light once they leaf out. Easy access to the kitchen is a plus. If the land has some slope and you garden in rows, align the rows perpendicular to the slope to decrease runoff. Otherwise align them east to west for best sun exposure. Also keep in mind that taller plants like okra, or trellised plants should be located where they won’t block the sun from shorter plants. Some crops can get by with a little less sun than others so if you have some shadier spots in your garden, refer again to our Planting Guide for North Florida Vegetables to see the approximate sun needs for various plants.

How to Grow: Probably the most productive and attractive way to grow a garden, especially in our area where soils lack nutrients and good texture, is to create raised beds. There are many advantages to a raised bed, and one of the biggest is that it doesn’t involve tilling. Tilling has become less popular in the home garden – it contributes to top soil loss, can increase weeds by bringing seeds up where they will germinate, and destroys the structure of the soil and the beneficial organisms living there. Many sites describe how to build a raised bed (for example, the UF document ENH1211). They can be built any size but limiting them to 4′ wide allows you to reach from both sides without walking into the bed. Raised planters complement square foot gardening, first proposed by Mel Bartholomew, which has become a popular and efficient way to garden.

Create your Bed: Once you’ve located your garden, if you’ve built raised beds, it’s time to create your soil mix. A 1-1-1 mix (by volume) of compost, peat moss and vermiculite makes the perfect soil. If you don’t have your own garden compost, then combine different kinds of store compost to ensure you’re putting a variety of nutrients into the mix. Once the planters are filled, mark off 1′ by 1′ squares with a sturdy grid. One-inch-wide strips of wood lath work well for this and give you a constant point of reference for spacing your plants correctly. Refer to our Planting Guide for North Florida Vegetables for suggested number of plants per square foot, for both transplants and seeds CLICK HERE!.

Plant your Garden: Before planting, spray the soil to moisten it thoroughly. Seed packets will list the sowing depth, but generally seeds are planted at a depth about equal to their size or a little deeper. Position trellises as you plant transplants (see our article on How to Make Trellises). CLICK HERE! Lightly water your new plants or seeds in and keep moist. With the right soil mix in the garden, fertilizer is less necessary, as nutrients are added when additional compost is refreshed at the end of the season. Keep your beds tidy and watered. A serpentine soaker hose run through the bed beneath the soil surface is an efficient, water-wise practice. Hand watering can supplement the irrigation regulated by the SJRWMD. Check on your garden daily and harvest often.

Starting Plants from Seeds Indoors

Growing plants from seeds indoors takes minimal supplies – a container, lightweight seed starting medium, seeds and a light source. Trays with transparent covers are also handy to keep soil moist until plants are about 2-3″ tall. A spray bottle can be used to water the containers without displacing the soil.

You can use a variety of containers from paper cups with drain holes to plastic cell packs which have dividers for multiple plants. If you’re growing many plants, its best to use something that will hold up a while and fit nicely with multiple pots in a tray. Since they can be planted right into the ground where they decompose, peat pots are great for growing crops that don’t like to be disrupted once they start growing.

If you want to be ready to plant outdoors as soon as its safe for the plants, you’ll want to start your seeds about 6 weeks before the last expected frost date. The first of February could be your start date in North Florida. This is approximate as crops take different amounts of time to germinate or grow to a size strong enough to transplant. You should also work in some days to harden off the seedling (put it outdoors increasingly longer each day for it to become adjusted to the change and increased sun).

Use a bucket to hold the seed starting mix while you moisten it with water. Dry mix repels water and is more difficult to wet once it is in a container. Fill the container with moistened seed starting mix, press lightly and leave room to water. Refer to the seed packet for the depth to plant the seed. Create a hole with a pencil tip or similar, drop a couple seeds in and cover with more medium. The extra seed is planted in case not all seeds germinate but some gardeners would rather plant one seed and not have to thin any plants later. If you do need to thin plants growing together, it is better to snip off the ones you cull rather than pull them up and risk unsettling the roots of the keeper.

Label your containers with the variety planted and the planting date. Keep your planted seeds warm to speed germination. A heat mat can be used but that can also cause the containers to dry too quickly. It is the water that starts the germination process and once the seed starts taking it in and growing, it can’t go on hold again to grow later – disruption in moisture will kill the seed. Although most seeds don’t need light to germinate, a clear cover will help retain the moisture and allow light to reach the plant once it has germinated. Light can be supplied by a full spectrum artificial source a few inches above the plants if sunlight is not available.

Once the seedlings start to emerge, the tray should be positioned to allow a little air flow. The first set of leaves to emerge are called cotyledons. Up to this point all the energy for the plant has come from the seed. The second set of leaves are true leaves, capable of photosynthesis. When they emerge, you can remove the cover and begin watering with a dilute liquid fertilizer weekly.

When all danger of frost has passed, your warm season seedlings can start the hardening off process by gradually introducing them to outdoor conditions and sun exposure. On the first day put them in a sheltered spot with no sun for 3 or 4 hours then bring them back inside. Add 2 or 3 hours each day to their time outside, bringing them back in at night. After 2 or 3 days put them in morning sun for the first part of the day, move into the shade in the afternoon and bring them in at night. After 7 days the seedlings should be able to stay outside all day in the sun but remember they can dry easily in their small containers. Leave them out at night if the temperature stays above 50°. They can be planted in the garden after 7-10 days. Try not to plant at the sunniest time of day and water them in well. Now they’re part of your garden!

Top Low Light House Plants

If you have rooms with very low light such as north-facing or windowless rooms, there are options to enliven and naturalize your space with living plants. Here is a list of plants that are troopers for their ease of growing and light needs. To increase your chances of success, you can do the following:

• Choose plants or varieties that are solid green or with less amounts of variegation.
• Consider leaving the lights on for 12 hours a day.
• Occasionally move the plants to an area with more light. But be careful to avoid full sun as the leaves will not be accustomed to this.
• Wipe the leaves with a damp cloth or tepid water to remove dust – it interferes with light absorption.

Plants for Low Light

Cast Iron Plant (Aspidistra elatior) – very tolerant of low light conditions and inconsistent watering. Mature height is about 3′.

Chinese Evergreen (Aglaonema commutatum) – choose one with less variegation. Handles dry air but needs moist soil.

Corn Plant (Dracaena fragrans) – Look especially for the variety with the solid green leaf. This plant can take virtually any light exposure, so you don’t need to worry where you place it.

Janet Craig Dracaena (Dracaena deremensis ‘Janet Craig’) – an old low light stand-by for many years. Can reach about 8′ tall eventually. Also survives low humidity and infrequent care.

Kentia Palm (Howea forsteriana) – Give it space to fan out. As a container plant it usually grows to 5-12′ tall.

Lucky Bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana) – can be kept in water (changed weekly) or in evenly moist soil. Often sold woven in interesting patterns.

Monstera/Swiss Cheese Plant (Monstera deliciosa) – can take a wide range of light conditions including low (stronger light allows it to grow faster). It has a climbing habit as it matures so you can either keep it pruned or supply a support. Older leaves can grow to a dramatic 2′ across. Not to be confused with Split-leaf Philodendron, which doesn’t have holes in the leaves and which fares better with more light.

Parlor Palm (Chamaedorea elegans) – although in the long run it would prefer medium light, this palm can tolerate low light for very long periods.

Pothos (Epipremnum aureum) and Heartleaf Philodendron (Philodendron scandens) – I list these 2 together because their appearance and growing conditions are very similar. Pothos varieties can have different variegations to them but if grown in low light they will be green like a Philodendron. The best way to tell them apart is to look at their leafstalks. Pothos have a groove or trough along the stalk whereas Philodendron is smooth/round. Both plants tolerate low light but Pothos with time may become leggy. Pothos is a little more tolerant of sun and drought. Both can climb/trail many feet.

Snake Plant (Sansevieria laurentii) – these come in quite a few shapes and colors from leaves that are sword shaped, short and wide to long and strappy, and even cylindrical. Colors vary from green to green and yellow, with white and even solid gray. Again, the green varieties should do best in low light. Snake plants are also tolerant of dry air and can easily exist on monthly watering.

ZZ Plant (Zamioculcas zamiifolia) – also requires very little water and usually doesn’t exceed about 3′.

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